Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A “colloid” or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance containing dispersed, insoluble particles that are suspended in a liquid. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can help alleviate redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration thanks to the presence of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

May help reduce itching and irritation.

Provides smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations designed to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.(1)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting primarily of kaolinite. It is a common clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. This fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency.(1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is frequently used in face masks, cleansers, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect while also soothing the skin. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations.(4-5)

Other applications include its use as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and base material for powders. Kaolin can also be used as a white pigment (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.(1)

Silicon dioxide is used in cosmetics as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, filler, binder, skin-conditioning agent, lubricant, suspending agent, and viscosity-increasing agent. Skin care products containing silica may be well-suited for oily skin, as they help absorb excess sebum and leave the skin feeling matte, refreshed, and powdery.(1)

Tin Oxide is a water-insoluble, inorganic metal compound that is used in cosmetic products primarily as an opacifier, viscosity regulator, and filler. Due to its opacifying properties, it gives formulations a more opaque appearance. It is used in low concentrations in both wash-off and leave-on products.(1-2)

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A “colloid” or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance containing dispersed, insoluble particles that are suspended in a liquid. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can help alleviate redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration thanks to the presence of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

May help reduce itching and irritation.

Provides smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations designed to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.(1)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting primarily of kaolinite. It is a common clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. This fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency.(1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is frequently used in face masks, cleansers, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect while also soothing the skin. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations.(4-5)

Other applications include its use as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and base material for powders. Kaolin can also be used as a white pigment (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.(1)

Magnesium hydroxide is an inorganic compound that is used in cosmetics primarily as an absorbent and as a buffering agent to stabilize the pH level.(1)

Magnesium oxide (MgO) is an inorganic compound that is widely used in cosmetic formulations as a fine, white powder. In creams, powders, or lotions, it serves as a white pigment (CI 77711), which provides the formulation with opacity or visual brightness. In addition, it helps absorb excess sebum, resulting in a matte complexion. At the same time, its buffering effect helps stabilize the product’s pH and contributes to the desired opacity and consistency. Due to its properties, magnesium oxide is a common excipient in decorative cosmetics and sunscreen products.(1)

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It is used in a variety of ways in cosmetic formulations—for example, as an absorbent, a binder, an emulsion stabilizer, and a film-forming agent, as well as a skin care ingredient and a hair conditioner.(1) In addition, maltodextrin often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation.(2)

Silicon dioxide is used in cosmetics as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, filler, binder, skin-conditioning agent, lubricant, suspending agent, and viscosity-increasing agent. Skin care products containing silica may be well-suited for oily skin, as they help absorb excess sebum and leave the skin feeling matte, refreshed, and powdery.(1)

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, is typically used as a preservative in cosmetics. When applied topically (to the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. Ethanol is widely used for topical application, and there are very few reports of adverse effects.(1)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, is typically used as a preservative in cosmetics. When applied topically (to the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. Ethanol is widely used for topical application, and there are very few reports of adverse effects.(1)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a synthetic cosmetic oil that feels light and silky on the skin. It improves the spreadability of cosmetic formulations and has mildly occlusive properties that can reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Due to its structural properties, it is also frequently used as a solvent for chemical UV filters in sunscreen formulations. (1-2)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has been used in cosmetic products for decades. Phenoxyethanol has a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity and is effective against various Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria as well as yeasts, while having only a weak inhibitory effect on the skin’s natural flora.(1) According to the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, phenoxyethanol is safe for all consumers (including children of all ages) when used as a preservative in cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of 1%. It can be considered one of the best-tolerated preservatives in cosmetic products.(1)

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is commonly used in skin care products because it is more stable than ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting properties due to its antioxidant activity, ascorbyl glucoside can also be used as a skin-brightening ingredient in cosmetics.(1-2)

An in vitro study investigated the photoprotective effect against ultraviolet (UV) light. The results suggest that the vitamin C derivative can prevent damage caused by UVB radiation by partially scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS).(3)

Thanks to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects, ascorbyl glucoside in our Serious C Serum helps improve the health and appearance of the skin.

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C. While pure vitamin C is water-soluble and often unstable, this esterified form offers excellent stability in oil-containing phases. (1)
In our products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily used as a functional antioxidant. It serves to protect the sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation. In particular, it prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid, thereby ensuring the product’s shelf life and quality. (1)–(3)
Ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective when combined with vitamin E. This creates a synergistic effect in which ascorbyl palmitate regenerates depleted vitamin E. This “recycling process” provides a longer-lasting protective shield against free radicals within the formulation. (4)

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its antioxidant properties.(1) It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human skin and is also capable of promoting collagen synthesis in deeper cells.(2-3) In a 2021 study, when combined with other substances such as rice peptides, it was shown to increase skin hydration, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote cell renewal in the epidermis.(4)

Baicalin is a plant-derived flavonoid found in the root of Scutellaria baicalensis (Chinese skullcap) that possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.(1-2) In in vitro studies, baicalin has also been shown to potentially slow cellular aging processes through its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.(3-4)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

EGCG is the abbreviation for epigallocatechin gallate, one of the most important polyphenolic compounds found in green tea (Camellia sinensis). This molecule, which belongs to the catechin class, is known for its wide range of health benefits. These benefits stem from its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The antioxidant defense system protects our skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are generated by UV radiation, cigarette smoke, or oxidative stress. ROS promote the progression of skin aging, wrinkle formation, and pigmentation. Excessive production of ROS triggers intracellular programmed cell death (apoptosis).For this reason, EGCG is also believed to have antimutagenic and antitumor effects.(1–3) A 2018 in vitro study concluded that EGCG is suitable as a cosmetic ingredient not only because of its free radical-scavenging activity but also due to its positive effect on skin hydration and reduced wrinkle formation.This powerful antioxidant is capable of rejuvenating skin cells, effectively protecting them from ionizing radiation, and improving overall skin condition. EGCG is used in cosmetic products to effectively prevent premature skin aging and serves as a protective shield for our skin.(4–5)

Haematococcus pluvialis is a green microalga that is a source of valuable bioactive compounds such as astaxanthin and other carotenoids, as well as proteins and fatty acids. (1)

Astaxanthin is found in a wide variety of organisms, ranging from tiny microorganisms to higher plants and animals. It is particularly known for its potent antioxidant effects, which enable it to effectively combat free radicals.(2-3)

Thanks to its unique chemical structure, astaxanthin possesses powerful antioxidant properties. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage. This protective mechanism helps prevent premature aging and various health problems.(2-3) Astaxanthin is considered “the most powerful antioxidant known” worldwide.(4) Its antioxidant effect—which protects cell membranes—is considered 65 times stronger than that of vitamin C and 50 times stronger than that of vitamin E. Furthermore, astaxanthin is considered the carotenoid with the strongest antioxidant effect.(5) Research findings suggest that astaxanthin may be beneficial in immune and inflammatory diseases. Due to its diverse functions in skin biology, astaxanthin is already being used in dermatology.(6) A particular advantage of astaxanthin is that it contains both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (fat-loving) components. This enables astaxanthin to penetrate the skin’s bilayer more effectively and exert a multifaceted effect there, compared to other antioxidants.(7)

Hydroxyacetophenone acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting the skin from free radicals while also serving as a skin-nourishing ingredient.(1)

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted significant interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effects includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin-lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effects against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and helps increase the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external factors.(1, 4, 5)

The body of research supports the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Sodium metabisulfite is a preservative. It is used in both cosmetics and food products.(1)

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an antioxidant enzyme used in skincare to combat oxidative stress, reduce premature skin aging, and protect against environmental damage (including UV radiation). It plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative stress by catalyzing the dismutation of superoxide radicals (O2-) into oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. SOD acts as a cellular defense mechanism, protecting cells from damage to DNA, proteins, and lipids.(1-2)

In an in vivo study, superoxide dismutase, combined with glycine soja protein and hydrolyzed rice protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(3)

Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a powerful antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and other environmental factors. In the skin, it protects cellular structures such as lipids, proteins, and DNA from free radicals, thereby helping to prevent light-induced skin aging (photoaging).(1-3)

Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetic products. It helps protect the skin from free radicals. Compared to free tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate is significantly more stable when exposed to oxygen, light, and heat, making it particularly suitable for light-sensitive formulations such as sunscreens. Studies show that, in appropriate formulations, tocopheryl acetate can alleviate UV-induced skin reactions such as redness and swelling. Due to its good stability, it is used in many skincare products to support the skin barrier and protect against light-induced skin aging.(1-3)

Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract, or silver ear, better known as snow mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), is a species of fungus belonging to the Tremelaceae family. It contains polysaccharides composed of mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid.(1) These polysaccharides form a film on the skin’s surface that increases its water-binding capacity and maintains the skin’s moisture content.1 In addition, Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract has strong antioxidant properties and thus protects against free radicals.(2-3)

Arginine is an important amino acid that is highly valued in skincare for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties. It binds water, thereby improving the skin’s hydration and suppleness. Arginine also plays an essential role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration.(1-2)

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products because it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in treating dry skin.(3-4)

Benzyl nicotinate stimulates blood circulation and, for example, in lip-plumping products, creates the desired redness and swelling of the skin to achieve a more voluminous effect.(1)

In an in vivo study, hydrolyzed rice protein, in combination with superoxide dismutase and soy protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Lecithin, also known as phosphatidylcholine, is the most commonly used neutral phospholipid. It is used as a skin-conditioning emulsifier, a solvent for pigments, and an antioxidant.(1) Phosphatidylcholine can be completely metabolized and also supplies the skin with two essential substances: linoleic acid and choline.(2) Lecithin is also frequently used to form liposomes. Liposomes enable active ingredients to be transported through the stratum corneum.(3)

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and belongs to the group of essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a skin-lightening effect, which is attributed to the suppression of melanin production and increased exfoliation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is well absorbed when applied topically to the skin and is rapidly oxidized enzymatically in the body to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Vitamin B5 is a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in various physiological processes such as intracellular lipid synthesis in the epidermis.(1-2) Panthenol penetrates the skin more effectively than vitamin B5 and is very well tolerated.(1–3) Panthenol has skin-nourishing and moisturizing effects and strengthens the skin’s barrier function.(2–5) In dry skin, it compensates for reduced hydration by increasing water content and positively influencing the molecular mobility of the lipid lamellae and proteins in the stratum corneum, thereby also reducing transepidermal water loss.(4–5) Panthenol can support wound healing in cases of burns, scalds, corneal lesions, and allergic dermatitis during all three phases of wound healing and has a protective effect against skin irritation.(5–6)

Sucrose Cocoate is a mild, moisturizing surfactant composed of fatty acid esters derived from coconut oil and sucrose esters. It is considered suitable for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.(1)

Allantoin is a skin-soothing active ingredient found in plants such as comfrey. In one study, a cream containing 0.5% allantoin was shown to accelerate skin regeneration and reduce redness following induced irritation. In addition, allantoin has an occlusive effect and can thus reduce transepidermal water loss.(1) In addition, allantoin has strong antioxidant properties and protects the skin from free radicals. (2)

Bisabolol is an active ingredient (sesquiterpene) that was originally derived from plants, such as chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Chamomile extract therefore naturally contains α-bisabolol. The active ingredient is valued for its anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, and antimicrobial properties. Bisabolol can help alleviate skin irritation and support the regeneration of irritated skin or skin prone to redness.(1-5)

Sesamum indicum, or sesame, is a plant native primarily to tropical regions. The active ingredient is extracted from the seeds and consists of various fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, as well as other fatty acids, most of which are unsaturated.(1) It also has antioxidant properties.(2) In cosmetic products, it is also often used because of the myristic acid it contains, as this acts as a stabilizing emulsifier.(1) It has been classified as safe as part of a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients.(3)

Behenyl alcohol is a long-chain fatty alcohol and is primarily used in skin care as an emollient or fat-soluble co-emulsifier. It helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and leaves the skin feeling smooth.(1-2)

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that can act as a thickener, suspending agent, film-forming agent, and stabilizer.(1)

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It is used in a variety of ways in cosmetic formulations—for example, as an absorbent, a binder, an emulsion stabilizer, and a film-forming agent, as well as a skin care ingredient and a hair conditioner.(1) In addition, maltodextrin often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation.(2)

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride consists of a mixture of plant-derived polyglycerides containing linoleic, linolenic, and oleic acids. In clinical trials, the polyglyceride mixture was shown to hydrate the top three layers of the epidermis and slightly reduce fine lines.(1)

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-soluble polymer that acts as a film-former, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controller.(1) Polymers are small molecules consisting of repeating units of chemically bonded monomers. They are ubiquitous in nature; for example, the DNA of all living cells, as well as the proteins and starch in our food, are all composed of polymers. The polymers most commonly used in cosmetics have cationic charges, which give the skin a smooth and nourishing feel. Other polymers can, for example, form a film on the skin’s surface.(2)

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan is a water-soluble derivative of beta-glucan—a natural polysaccharide derived from microorganisms such as yeasts or fungi. In cosmetic formulations, beta-glucan has a moisturizing effect and forms a smooth film on the skin that supports its barrier function and protects the skin from moisture loss. At the same time, it can activate immune cells such as macrophages, thereby promoting skin regeneration—for example, after stress or irritation. Clinical data show that beta-glucan can soothe the skin, reduce redness, and accelerate regeneration. (1–4)

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modified form of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps improve the texture of skin care products.(1)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.(1-2)

Caprylhydroxamic acid is a chelating agent. Chelating agents are substances used in cosmetic products to neutralize metal ions in the formulation. What makes this chelating agent unique is that it not only acts as a preservative but also possesses preservative properties.(1)

As an ideal buffering agent, citric acid regulates the pH of a formulation and acts as a chelating agent, thereby improving the stability and shelf life of products.(1)

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is valued in skincare for its gentle and moisturizing properties. This PHA gently exfoliates the outermost layer of the skin and promotes cell renewal, making the skin appear smoother and more radiant. Compared to other hydroxy acids, gluconolactone is less irritating and therefore ideal for sensitive skin types. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Gluconolactone can be used in cosmetic products to support the skin barrier, reduce skin imperfections, and care for mature skin.(1-3)

Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid and is primarily used in cosmetics as a pH regulator and buffering agent. It helps maintain a stable pH level in formulations, thereby supporting skin tolerance and product shelf life. In addition, sodium citrate is used as a chelating agent to bind metal ions, thereby improving the stability of cosmetic products.(1–3)

Sodium phytate is the sodium salt of phytic acid, which is derived from plants and acts as a chelating agent. Chelating agents are substances used in cosmetic products to neutralize metal ions in the formulation.(1) What makes this chelating agent unique is that it not only acts as a preservative but also possesses antioxidant properties.(2)

Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is an ingredient used in cosmetic formulations as a stabilizer and chelating agent. It binds metal ions that could otherwise compromise a product’s stability and quality.(1)

Caprylyl glycol serves several important functions in cosmetic products. It has both nourishing and moisturizing properties, as well as antimicrobial properties. The latter helps improve the stability of cosmetic products.(1-2) When combined with 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol enhances the preservative system, for example in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. Furthermore, study results have shown that caprylyl glycol is well tolerated by the skin.(3)

Ethylhexylglycerin inhibits the growth and reproduction of odor-causing bacteria and enhances the effectiveness of cosmetic preservatives.(1)

Glyceryl caprylate is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a skin-conditioning ingredient as well as an emulsifier.(1)

Glyceryl caprylate (1) is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a moisturizing ingredient, but also as an emulsifier.(1)

Triethyl citrate, also known as citric acid ester, is a solvent and diluent and is not considered to be a skin sensitizer. It is even approved for use in food products.(1)

A study also investigated the efficacy of a formulation containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate on acne vulgaris. Triethyl citrate is hydrolyzed by C. acnes (which triggers acne under certain circumstances) into the diethyl ester and monoethyl ester of citric acid, as well as citric acid itself. As a result, the microenvironment of the pores becomes acidic, leading to reduced growth of C. acnes, inhibition of bacterial lipases, and modulation of the keratolytic effect.(2)

2,3-Butanediol is a diol with moisturizing and stabilizing properties. In skin care, it is used as a versatile excipient—among other things, to bind moisture, improve texture, and act as a dispersant for poorly soluble active ingredients.(1)

Acetic acid, also known as vinegar acid, is produced through fermentation and has antimicrobial properties as well as a pH-regulating effect in cosmetic formulations.(1)

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, is typically used as a preservative in cosmetics. When applied topically (to the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. Ethanol is widely used for topical application, and there are very few reports of adverse effects.(1)

Arginine is an important amino acid that is highly valued in skincare for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties. It binds water, thereby improving the skin’s hydration and suppleness. Arginine also plays an essential role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration.(1-2)

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products because it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in treating dry skin.(3-4)

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C. While pure vitamin C is water-soluble and often unstable, this esterified form offers excellent stability in oil-containing phases. (1)
In our products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily used as a functional antioxidant. It serves to protect the sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation. In particular, it prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid, thereby ensuring the product’s shelf life and quality. (1)–(3)
Ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective when combined with vitamin E. This creates a synergistic effect in which ascorbyl palmitate regenerates depleted vitamin E. This “recycling process” provides a longer-lasting protective shield against free radicals within the formulation. (4)

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with a wide range of benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is frequently used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) In cases of rosacea, azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation. (2, 4) Furthermore, azelaic acid has strong antioxidant properties by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

Bisabolol is an active ingredient (sesquiterpene) that was originally derived from plants, such as chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Chamomile extract therefore naturally contains α-bisabolol. The active ingredient is valued for its anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, and antimicrobial properties. Bisabolol can help alleviate skin irritation and support the regeneration of irritated skin or skin prone to redness.(1-5)

Butylene glycol is a dihydric alcohol that has moisturizing properties and serves as a solvent.(1)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a skin lipid that occurs naturally in sebum; it consists of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides).

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is used in cosmetic products because of its moisturizing properties; it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.(1)

It moisturizes by forming a light, non-greasy barrier and absorbs very quickly. As a dispersing agent, it can help distribute active ingredients such as vitamins evenly throughout a solution so that they can be easily absorbed by the epidermis.(2)

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae rich in carrageenan that acts as a thickener and stabilizer. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysaccharides with promising properties, such as antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic activities. Its antioxidant effect is attributed to polyphenols.(1-2)

As an ideal buffering agent, citric acid regulates the pH of a formulation and acts as a chelating agent, thereby improving the stability and shelf life of products.(1)

Disodium phosphate (disodium hydrogen phosphate) is a synthetically produced buffer that regulates and stabilizes the pH of cosmetic formulations. It can also act as a corrosion inhibitor.(1-2)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Hippophae rhamnoides extract is a plant extract derived from sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides, family Elaeagnaceae).(1) In our formulation, we use an extract derived from upcycled leaves, which, due to its composition (including phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins, and organic acids), is used as an antioxidant and skin-nourishing ingredient. According to the manufacturer, it improves the appearance of dark circles and puffiness and leaves the eye area looking fresher.(2)

Octyldodecanol is a long-chain fatty alcohol. In formulations, it acts as a skin conditioner and emollient, or it dissolves certain active ingredients and fragrances (solvent).(1-2)

p-Anisic acid is an aromatic carboxylic acid with multifunctional properties. It is known for its masking effect. (1-2)

Phenylpropanol is an organic compound that belongs to the group of aromatic alcohols and exhibits reliable antimicrobial activity.(1) In addition, phenylpropanol is a non-sensitizing substance that masks unpleasant raw material odors.(2)

Potassium sorbate is a preservative used in cosmetics that has antimicrobial properties. It helps extend the shelf life of cosmetic products. The substance occurs naturally in berries, for example, but is usually produced synthetically for use in cosmetics. In rare cases, potassium sorbate can cause mild skin irritation.(1)

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly well-suited for blemish-prone skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid may help reduce skin blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin’s surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion.(1-5)

Sodium benzoate is a preservative generally recognized as safe that has bacteriostatic and fungistatic effects in an acidic environment.(1)

Sodium chloride, also known as table salt, is used in low concentrations and acts as a thickening agent in cleaning products.

Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid and is primarily used in cosmetics as a pH regulator and buffering agent. It helps maintain a stable pH level in formulations, thereby supporting skin tolerance and product shelf life. In addition, sodium citrate is used as a chelating agent to bind metal ions, thereby improving the stability of cosmetic products.(1–3)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleanser. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage to the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) As a result, it is a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a powerful antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and other environmental factors. In the skin, it protects cellular structures such as lipids, proteins, and DNA from free radicals, thereby helping to prevent light-induced skin aging (photoaging).(1-3)

Triethyl citrate, also known as citric acid ester, is a solvent and diluent and is not considered to be a skin sensitizer. It is even approved for use in food products.(1)

A study also investigated the efficacy of a formulation containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate on acne vulgaris. Triethyl citrate is hydrolyzed by C. acnes (which triggers acne under certain circumstances) into the diethyl ester and monoethyl ester of citric acid, as well as citric acid itself. As a result, the microenvironment of the pores becomes acidic, leading to reduced growth of C. acnes, inhibition of bacterial lipases, and modulation of the keratolytic effect.(2)

Vanillin is considered a flavoring and fragrance ingredient with a pleasant vanilla note. Sensitization to vanillin is considered rare, and its sensitizing potential is considered weak. In an illustrative risk assessment of cosmetic products containing vanillin, a concentration of 0.5% vanillin was classified as safe. Better Balm contains 0.33% vanillin, and Hypnotic Hues contains 0.16% vanillin.(1)

Vanillyl butyl ether is oil-soluble and produces a long-lasting, gentle sensation of warmth on the skin, which in turn causes vasodilation without unwanted side effects such as irritation or itching. This vasodilation results in a plumping effect.(1)

Behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid found in natural sources such as vegetable oils derived from the seeds of Moringa oleifera, and in small amounts in canola and peanut oils.(1) Cosmetic products that contain behenic acid as an emulsifier are characterized by high storage stability, even at high temperatures.(2)

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester is an ester of ethylene glycol and C18-36 acid and acts as an emulsifier.(1)

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is primarily used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin.(1)

Cholesterol is a type of fat and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is a major component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes cholesterol on its own in the epidermis.

Following a disruption of the skin barrier, the early phase of repair is characterized by an increase in fatty acid and cholesterol biosynthesis, followed by epidermal sphingolipid synthesis. This highlights the importance of these epidermal lipids for the integrity and function of the skin barrier.(1)

Glyceryl caprylate is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a skin-conditioning ingredient as well as an emulsifier.(1)

Glyceryl caprylate (1) is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a moisturizing ingredient, but also as an emulsifier.(1)

Glyceryl oleate is produced by the esterification of oleic acid with glycerin and acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer, as well as a moisturizing ingredient in cleansing products that can even strengthen the skin’s natural lipid barrier and smooth the skin.(1)

Glyceryl stearate (1) is the monoester of glycerin and stearic acid. It acts as a conditioning agent, but also as an emulsifier.

Glyceryl stearate citrate is an emulsifier that also acts as an emollient and skin care ingredient.(1) It is synthesized from glycerin and stearic acid.(2) In skin care, it is used to improve skin hydration and barrier function and to reduce irritation.

In an in vivo study, glycine soja protein, in combination with superoxide dismutase and hydrolyzed rice protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Hydrogenated lecithin is the end product of the controlled hydrogenation of lecithin and has the same functions as lecithin. It also acts as a suspending agent.(1)

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate is an esterified mixture of hydrogenated vegetable glycerides and citric acid. In cosmetics, it is used as an emollient, stabilizer, and co-emulsifier. It improves the texture and stability of emulsions, prevents oil- and water-based ingredients from separating, and helps ensure a smooth, silky application on the skin. Additionally, it supports skin care by keeping the skin soft and supple. (1-2)

Lecithin, also known as phosphatidylcholine, is the most commonly used neutral phospholipid. It is used as a skin-conditioning emulsifier, a solvent for pigments, and an antioxidant.(1) Phosphatidylcholine can be completely metabolized and also supplies the skin with two essential substances: linoleic acid and choline.(2) Lecithin is also frequently used to form liposomes. Liposomes enable active ingredients to be transported through the stratum corneum.(3)

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid that acts as an emulsifier, enabling the formation of oil-in-water emulsions. Oleic acid can support wound healing by stimulating repair processes in the skin.(1) At higher concentrations, oleic acid can also increase skin permeability, thereby improving, for example, the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.(2)

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate is an ester compound consisting of polyglycerin and lauric acid. Polyglyceryl-10 laurate acts as a mild emulsifier.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a versatile, mild emulsifier derived from plant-based raw materials. It offers moisturizing properties and forms stable emulsions with all common oils and fats used in skin care products. In addition, it can enhance the skin penetration of other active ingredients, such as those with anti-aging effects.(1)

Sodium lauroyl lactylate is a salt formed from lactate and lauric acid. It acts as an emulsifier and also has excellent wetting and antibacterial properties.(1)

Sodium linoleate is the sodium salt of linoleic acid. It acts as an emulsifier and viscosity regulator.(1)

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (SSL) acts as an emulsifier. Emulsifiers are excipients used in cosmetic formulations to combine two phases that are normally immiscible—such as oil and water—into a stable, uniform emulsion.(1)

Sorbitan isostearate is the monoester of isostearic acid and hexitol anhydrides derived from sorbitol. It acts as an emulsifier in cosmetics, helping to stabilize emulsions. Sorbitan isostearate is frequently used in baby products.(1)

Sorbitan laurate is the ester of sorbitan and lauric acid and serves as an emulsifier. It is considered safe for use in cosmetic products.(1)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleanser. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage to the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) As a result, it is a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Sucrose Cocoate is a mild, moisturizing surfactant composed of fatty acid esters derived from coconut oil and sucrose esters. It is considered suitable for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.(1)

Sucrose stearate (sucrose ester) is used as an emulsifier and skin care ingredient.(1) It consists of esters of sucrose and fatty acids with various hydrophilic and lipophilic properties. Due to their gel-forming properties, they are used in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries.(2-3)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.(1-2)

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetic products as a film-forming agent, emulsifier, or stabilizer. It ensures that the texture is stable, uniform, and pleasant to apply, particularly in emulsions containing UV filters. We deliberately include this ingredient in formulations where it is functionally necessary to improve texture, stability, and the sensory experience.(1-2)

Behenyl alcohol is a long-chain fatty alcohol and is primarily used in skin care as an emollient or fat-soluble co-emulsifier. It helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and leaves the skin feeling smooth.(1-2)

Carbomer consists of a high-molecular-weight chain of acrylic acid units. It acts as a gelling and film-forming agent, thereby increasing the viscosity of formulations and stabilizing emulsions.(1)

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is primarily used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin.(1)

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that can act as a thickener, suspending agent, film-forming agent, and stabilizer.(1)

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It is used in a variety of ways in cosmetic formulations—for example, as an absorbent, a binder, an emulsion stabilizer, and a film-forming agent, as well as a skin care ingredient and a hair conditioner.(1) In addition, maltodextrin often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation.(2)

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride consists of a mixture of plant-derived polyglycerides containing linoleic, linolenic, and oleic acids. In clinical trials, the polyglyceride mixture was shown to hydrate the top three layers of the epidermis and slightly reduce fine lines.(1)

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate is the ester of stearic acid and a glycerin polymer. It serves as a skin-conditioning ingredient with emulsifying properties.(1)

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is produced using yeasts of the genus Pseudozyma. The fermentation process creates bioactive compounds that can enhance the oil’s skin-nourishing properties.(1–3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties.(1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care.(4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the skin’s microbial diversity (alpha diversity) and positively influence the skin microbiome.(1)

Sclerotium gum is a nonionic polysaccharide produced microbially by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is characterized by a linear chain of glucose units.(1-2) It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity modifier, and conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations.(2-3)

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modified form of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps improve the texture of skin care products.(1)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleanser. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage to the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) As a result, it is a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.(1-2)

A blue-to-green pigment (ultramarine) of mineral origin. The pigment is classified as recommended.(1)

A reddish-brown color pigment (iron oxide) of mineral origin.(1)

The Color Index (CI) identifies colorants using numbers that designate specific color pigments, such as CI 77007 for ultramarine blue. According to the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, colorants in cosmetic products are ingredients that serve primarily to impart color to cosmetic products or parts of the body. Annex IV of the Regulation lists approved colorants, which are subject to rigorous safety testing before they may be used. In addition, the Regulation establishes specific maximum concentrations and permitted areas of use for certain colorants to ensure their safe use in cosmetic products.(1-3)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting primarily of kaolinite. It is a common clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. This fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency.(1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is frequently used in face masks, cleansers, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect while also soothing the skin. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations.(4-5)

Other applications include its use as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and base material for powders. Kaolin can also be used as a white pigment (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.(1)

Mica is a mixture of minerals with a layered structure that can be easily split into thin platelets. In cosmetics, mica is used as a so-called effect pigment (glimmer)—for example, to create shine, shimmer, or a light-reflecting finish. Due to its optical and functional properties, mica is a popular ingredient in powders, foundations, eyeshadows, and other decorative products.(1-2)

Titanium dioxide is a white micropigment used as an opacifier, powder base, UV filter in sunscreens, and colorant (C.I. 77891).(1)

Zinc oxide is a white, mineral-based powder that is primarily used in cosmetics as a UV filter and pigment (CI 77947). As an ingredient in sunscreen, it protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays by absorbing them and, to a small extent, reflecting them. In addition, zinc oxide can have astringent and anti-inflammatory effects.(1-2)

2,3-Butanediol is a diol with moisturizing and stabilizing properties. In skin care, it is used as a versatile excipient—among other things, to bind moisture, improve texture, and act as a dispersant for poorly soluble active ingredients.(1)

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide and is frequently used as a neurocosmetic active ingredient. In in vitro studies, it modulates components of the SNARE complex, which can attenuate facial micro-contractions—a mechanism often described as “Botox-like” (a cosmetic, non-injectable mechanism).(1-2)

Clinical trials report a reduction in fine lines. In the eye area, brightening and soothing effects were also observed in areas where the skin appeared tired. Manufacturer data show that the activity of tyrosinase—a key enzyme in melanin production—can be inhibited (in vitro), thereby contributing to a more even skin tone.(3-4)

Betaine is a natural moisturizing factor. In cosmetics, it is used as an ingredient that binds moisture and keeps the skin supple. At the same time, betaine helps protect the skin from drying out. (1)

Butylene glycol is a dihydric alcohol that has moisturizing properties and serves as a solvent.(1)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Glyceryl glucoside is a moisturizing ingredient formed by the condensation of glycerin and glucose. In skincare, it is primarily used in products for dry, dehydrated, or compromised skin, as it can improve skin hydration and strengthen the skin barrier. (1)

In addition to its role as a humectant, recent studies suggest that glyceryl glucoside may promote the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) in keratinocytes. AQP3 is an important water and glycerin channel in the epidermis. By rebalancing this channel, glyceryl glucoside can help regulate water distribution in the skin, reduce transepidermal water loss, and thus support the skin’s hydration and barrier function. (2,3)

Isomalt is a plant-based sugar substitute consisting of two sugar alcohols. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a humectant (technical additive) because it helps retain moisture in the product. (1)

Lactic acid acts, depending on the concentration used, as a natural moisturizing factor or as an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), which gently exfoliates the skin and provides moisture. Lactic acid also stimulates ceramide biosynthesis and improves the skin’s barrier function. By stimulating ceramide synthesis, the ceramide content in the skin is increased, which strengthens the skin barrier and improves the skin’s structural integrity.(1–4)

Polyglycerin-3 is polymerized glycerin, which is used in cosmetic products to moisturize the skin. Due to its large molecular size, it penetrates the skin relatively slowly, thereby providing long-lasting hydration. It also forms a protective barrier, binds water, and locks it into the upper layers of the skin. It is considered suitable for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe as part of a safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.(1)

Potassium Lactate is the potassium salt of lactic acid and is frequently used as an excipient in cosmetic formulations. In skin care, it also serves as a humectant, as it binds water and thus helps protect the skin from drying out. In addition, potassium lactate has skin-nourishing properties and helps the skin feel comfortable. Thanks to its buffering properties, it also helps regulate and stabilize the pH of cosmetic products, which is important for the formulation’s tolerability and effectiveness. (1)

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is produced using yeasts of the genus Pseudozyma. The fermentation process creates bioactive compounds that can enhance the oil’s skin-nourishing properties.(1–3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties.(1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care.(4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the skin’s microbial diversity (alpha diversity) and positively influence the skin microbiome.(1)

Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-based moisturizer that binds to the skin for a long time and can continue to hydrate the skin even after rinsing. It improves skin hydration, supports the skin barrier, and is particularly suitable for dry or sensitive skin. (1–3) Studies show that formulations containing Saccharide Isomerate provide the skin with long-lasting hydration and can also have a nourishing effect on dry or flaky scalps. (2,4)

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide consisting of glycosidically linked glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine monomers. Our skin serves as the body’s primary reservoir of hyaluronic acid, as it stores approximately half of the body’s total hyaluronic acid content. Under optimal conditions, hyaluronic acid is found in all layers of the epidermis and dermis. Hyaluronic acid is a major component of the extracellular matrix in tissues such as connective tissue, and it has the ability to bind large amounts of water, which is why it is used in cosmetics, among other applications, as a moisturizer. It also performs many important functions, such as the formation of proteoglycans.(1)

Sodium lactate, a highly moisturizing active ingredient that increases the skin's water-binding capacity.(1)

Sodium polyglutamate is the sodium salt of polyglutamic acid, a biopolymer obtained through fermentation consisting of linked glutamic acid units. Due to its high molecular weight, it acts primarily on the skin’s surface, where it forms a moisture-retaining film. The active ingredient provides immediate hydration, improves skin elasticity, and leaves the skin feeling pleasant. It can also enhance the stability of hyaluronic acid. (1-3)

Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract, or silver ear, better known as snow mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), is a species of fungus belonging to the Tremelaceae family. It contains polysaccharides composed of mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid.(1) These polysaccharides form a film on the skin’s surface that increases its water-binding capacity and maintains the skin’s moisture content.1 In addition, Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract has strong antioxidant properties and thus protects against free radicals.(2-3)

Hyaluronic acid is one of the primary factors in skin hydration, along with lipids, natural moisturizing factors, sebum, and aquaporin. As the predominant component of the extracellular matrix, hyaluronic acid plays an essential role in maintaining skin hydration. Hyaluronic acid is produced as early as the embryonic development stage, making it one of the first components of the extracellular matrix. In addition to its ability to bind water, the molecule acts as a lubricant during skin movements between the collagen and elastic fiber networks in the dermis. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid can influence cellular metabolism.(1)

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetic products as a film-forming agent, emulsifier, or stabilizer. It ensures that the texture is stable, uniform, and pleasant to apply, particularly in emulsions containing UV filters. We deliberately include this ingredient in formulations where it is functionally necessary to improve texture, stability, and the sensory experience.(1-2)

Gellan gum is a biotechnologically produced polysaccharide obtained through fermentation using bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas. The ingredient is considered to be of plant origin and is used in cosmetics as an excipient with a variety of functions. (1)

In cosmetic formulations, gellan gum primarily acts as a viscosity modifier by influencing the product’s texture and flow properties. In addition, it has film-forming properties: it forms a thin, even film, which not only improves the feel on the skin but can also help stabilize the formulation. (1-3)

Hydrolyzed jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis). It is an excellent moisturizer and, when combined with glycerin, provides moisture for at least 24 hours.(1-2)

Because of its chemical similarity to human sebum, it supports the skin's natural balance, forms a non-greasy film to lock in moisture, and regulates sebum production without clogging pores.(3)

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that can act as a thickener, suspending agent, film-forming agent, and stabilizer.(1)

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It is used in a variety of ways in cosmetic formulations—for example, as an absorbent, a binder, an emulsion stabilizer, and a film-forming agent, as well as a skin care ingredient and a hair conditioner.(1) In addition, maltodextrin often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation.(2)

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-soluble polymer that acts as a film-former, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controller.(1) Polymers are small molecules consisting of repeating units of chemically bonded monomers. They are ubiquitous in nature; for example, the DNA of all living cells, as well as the proteins and starch in our food, are all composed of polymers. The polymers most commonly used in cosmetics have cationic charges, which give the skin a smooth and nourishing feel. Other polymers can, for example, form a film on the skin’s surface.(2)

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modified form of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps improve the texture of skin care products.(1)

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A “colloid” or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance containing dispersed, insoluble particles that are suspended in a liquid. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can help alleviate redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration thanks to the presence of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

May help reduce itching and irritation.

Provides smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations designed to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.(1)

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch ester produced by the reaction of starch with hydroxypropyl and phosphate groups. This modification improves the physical and chemical properties of the starch. In skincare, this ingredient acts as a thickener, stabilizer, swelling agent, and viscosity modifier. It gives products a smooth, even consistency and improves their spreadability on the skin. In addition, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate reduces the sticky or greasy feel of formulations and helps retain moisture, keeping the skin hydrated. This ingredient is mild and well-tolerated, making it ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin.(1-2)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting primarily of kaolinite. It is a common clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. This fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency.(1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is frequently used in face masks, cleansers, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect while also soothing the skin. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations.(4-5)

Other applications include its use as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and base material for powders. Kaolin can also be used as a white pigment (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.(1)

Mica is a mixture of minerals with a layered structure that can be easily split into thin platelets. In cosmetics, mica is used as a so-called effect pigment (glimmer)—for example, to create shine, shimmer, or a light-reflecting finish. Due to its optical and functional properties, mica is a popular ingredient in powders, foundations, eyeshadows, and other decorative products.(1-2)

Silicon dioxide is used in cosmetics as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, filler, binder, skin-conditioning agent, lubricant, suspending agent, and viscosity-increasing agent. Skin care products containing silica may be well-suited for oily skin, as they help absorb excess sebum and leave the skin feeling matte, refreshed, and powdery.(1)

Sodium chloride, also known as table salt, is used in low concentrations and acts as a thickening agent in cleaning products.

Tin Oxide is a water-insoluble, inorganic metal compound that is used in cosmetic products primarily as an opacifier, viscosity regulator, and filler. Due to its opacifying properties, it gives formulations a more opaque appearance. It is used in low concentrations in both wash-off and leave-on products.(1-2)

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly well-suited for blemish-prone skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid may help reduce skin blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin’s surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion.(1-5)

Carbomer consists of a high-molecular-weight chain of acrylic acid units. It acts as a gelling and film-forming agent, thereby increasing the viscosity of formulations and stabilizing emulsions.(1)

Sodium dextran sulfate is used as a viscosity regulator in cosmetic formulations.(1) Its benefits for skin health include improved blood circulation and the potential to inhibit viral infections.(2, 3)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.(1-2)

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharides are a prebiotic. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial bacteria that occur naturally on the skin and play an important role in maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.(1–3) When combined with inulin, alpha-glucan oligosaccharides can help relieve skin symptoms such as dryness and itching.(4)

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and is part of the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin-care benefits. Niacinamide is a thoroughly researched active ingredient that has been shown in numerous studies to be effective in improving the appearance of the skin.(1-8)

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of Sebum Production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, thereby minimizing blemishes and oily shine.(1)

Lightening of Pigment Spots & Even Skin Tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation.(4)

A 2010 study also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the Skin Barrier & Reducing Moisture Loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin smoother and less prone to irritation.(3)

Anti-Aging & Skin Refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.(2)

Thanks to its multifunctional effects on sebum regulation, skin brightening, barrier reinforcement, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin concerns. (8)

Sesamum indicum, or sesame, is a plant native primarily to tropical regions. The active ingredient is extracted from the seeds and consists of various fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, as well as other fatty acids, most of which are unsaturated.(1) It also has antioxidant properties.(2) In cosmetic products, it is also often used because of the myristic acid it contains, as this acts as a stabilizing emulsifier.(1) It has been classified as safe as part of a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients.(3)

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is the INCI name for the peptide N-Acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Arginine Hexadecyl Ester. This is a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide.(1) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester promotes the synthesis of biologically active peptides that actively reduce inflammatory reactions. As a result, the peptide alleviates burning sensations on the skin and inflammation that can occur due to exposure to heat, contact with certain skin-irritating substances, or mechanical stress.(1-2) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester can also promote the formation of important proteins in the epidermis, thereby helping to improve the epidermal skin barrier.(1)

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a synthetically produced, acetylated dipeptide ester. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a skin-care active ingredient for healthy aging, as it specifically helps to firm the skin’s structure. The dipeptide not only promotes elastin synthesis but also supports the functional organization of elastic fibers. Studies have shown that it stimulates key structural proteins responsible for the mechanical stability of the tissue. As a result, the skin gains elasticity and becomes more resistant to sagging and external stressors.(1-2)

Arginine is an important amino acid that is highly valued in skincare for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties. It binds water, thereby improving the skin’s hydration and suppleness. Arginine also plays an essential role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration.(1-2)

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products because it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in treating dry skin.(3-4)

Betaine is a natural moisturizing factor. In cosmetics, it is used as an ingredient that binds moisture and keeps the skin supple. At the same time, betaine helps protect the skin from drying out. (1)

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is a modern chemical UV filter with a particularly broad absorption spectrum ranging from 280 to 400 nm. It protects against both UVA and UVB radiation and is considered highly photostable. BEMT is oil-soluble and is ideal for broad-spectrum protective formulations with a high SPF.(1)

Caprylyl glycol serves several important functions in cosmetic products. It has both nourishing and moisturizing properties, as well as antimicrobial properties. The latter helps improve the stability of cosmetic products.(1-2) When combined with 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol enhances the preservative system, for example in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. Furthermore, study results have shown that caprylyl glycol is well tolerated by the skin.(3)

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate is the ester of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is used as a skin care ingredient (emollient) as well as a hair care ingredient.(1)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

In an in vivo study, glycine soja protein, in combination with superoxide dismutase and hydrolyzed rice protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-nourishing properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it especially pleasant to use.(1-8)

Advantages:

Soothes skin irritation and helps relieve itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling soft and supple.

Supports the skin's natural barrier and strengthens dry, rough, or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Hydrolyzed jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis). It is an excellent moisturizer and, when combined with glycerin, provides moisture for at least 24 hours.(1-2)

Because of its chemical similarity to human sebum, it supports the skin's natural balance, forms a non-greasy film to lock in moisture, and regulates sebum production without clogging pores.(3)

In an in vivo study, hydrolyzed rice protein, in combination with superoxide dismutase and soy protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Lauroyl lysine is an ingredient used in cosmetics primarily as a sensory modifier and texture enhancer. This derivative of the amino acid lysine improves the skin feel and application properties of cosmetic products.(1)

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and belongs to the group of essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a skin-lightening effect, which is attributed to the suppression of melanin production and increased exfoliation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It is used in a variety of ways in cosmetic formulations—for example, as an absorbent, a binder, an emulsion stabilizer, and a film-forming agent, as well as a skin care ingredient and a hair conditioner.(1) In addition, maltodextrin often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation.(2)

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is well absorbed when applied topically to the skin and is rapidly oxidized enzymatically in the body to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Vitamin B5 is a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in various physiological processes such as intracellular lipid synthesis in the epidermis.(1-2) Panthenol penetrates the skin more effectively than vitamin B5 and is very well tolerated.(1–3) Panthenol has skin-nourishing and moisturizing effects and strengthens the skin’s barrier function.(2–5) In dry skin, it compensates for reduced hydration by increasing water content and positively influencing the molecular mobility of the lipid lamellae and proteins in the stratum corneum, thereby also reducing transepidermal water loss.(4–5) Panthenol can support wound healing in cases of burns, scalds, corneal lesions, and allergic dermatitis during all three phases of wound healing and has a protective effect against skin irritation.(5–6)

Phytosphingosines are sphingolipids that occur naturally in the stratum corneum both in free form and as part of the main ceramide fraction. Phytosphingosines are known to strengthen the skin barrier. In addition, by influencing the filaggrin signaling pathway, phytosphingosines have a moisturizing effect and promote the formation of natural moisturizing factors.(1) Furthermore, phytosphingosines demonstrate excellent clinical results in skincare for acne, based on both their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.(2-3)

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is produced using yeasts of the genus Pseudozyma. The fermentation process creates bioactive compounds that can enhance the oil’s skin-nourishing properties.(1–3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties.(1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care.(4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the skin’s microbial diversity (alpha diversity) and positively influence the skin microbiome.(1)

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly well-suited for blemish-prone skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid may help reduce skin blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin’s surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion.(1-5)

Sesamum indicum, or sesame, is a plant native primarily to tropical regions. The active ingredient is extracted from the seeds and consists of various fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, as well as other fatty acids, most of which are unsaturated.(1) It also has antioxidant properties.(2) In cosmetic products, it is also often used because of the myristic acid it contains, as this acts as a stabilizing emulsifier.(1) It has been classified as safe as part of a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients.(3)

Jojoba oil is a wax ester; due to its chemical similarity to human sebum, it supports the skin’s natural balance, forms a non-greasy film to retain moisture, and regulates sebum production without clogging the pores.(1)

Sodium polyglutamate is the sodium salt of polyglutamic acid, a biopolymer obtained through fermentation consisting of linked glutamic acid units. Due to its high molecular weight, it acts primarily on the skin’s surface, where it forms a moisture-retaining film. The active ingredient provides immediate hydration, improves skin elasticity, and leaves the skin feeling pleasant. It can also enhance the stability of hyaluronic acid. (1-3)

Squalane is the stable, saturated form of squalene, a natural component of human sebum that is also found in plants such as olives. The raw material is a clear, colorless, and odorless oil. It is characterized by its high stability. Squalane has a moisturizing effect by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Thanks to its skin-like structure, it is easily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It also supports skin regeneration.(1-3)

Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract, or silver ear, better known as snow mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), is a species of fungus belonging to the Tremelaceae family. It contains polysaccharides composed of mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid.(1) These polysaccharides form a film on the skin’s surface that increases its water-binding capacity and maintains the skin’s moisture content.1 In addition, Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract has strong antioxidant properties and thus protects against free radicals.(2-3)

Vanillyl butyl ether is oil-soluble and produces a long-lasting, gentle sensation of warmth on the skin, which in turn causes vasodilation without unwanted side effects such as irritation or itching. This vasodilation results in a plumping effect.(1)

1,2-Hexanediol, together with caprylyl glycol, enhances the preservative system in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. The combination of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol also moisturizes and nourishes the skin. Studies have shown that this preservative system is very gentle on the skin and does not cause irritation.(1)

2,3-Butanediol is a diol with moisturizing and stabilizing properties. In skin care, it is used as a versatile excipient—among other things, to bind moisture, improve texture, and act as a dispersant for poorly soluble active ingredients.(1)

The chemical compound 3-ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and elasticity-enhancing properties.(1–3) In one study, an emulsion (O/W) containing 3% ascorbic acid resulted in an improved epidermal-dermal microstructure and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles following application.(4)

Acacia decurrens (also known as mimosa wax), or black pine in German, belongs to the Fabaceae family. The lipids from the flower extract have skin-conditioning and occlusive properties. Acacia Decurrens wax contains a mixture of free fatty acids, saturated monoesters, and a large amount of odd-numbered hydrocarbon chains. As a wax, it has skin-protecting and film-forming properties.(1)

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is the INCI name for the peptide N-Acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Arginine Hexadecyl Ester. This is a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide.(1) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester promotes the synthesis of biologically active peptides that actively reduce inflammatory reactions. As a result, the peptide alleviates burning sensations on the skin and inflammation that can occur due to exposure to heat, contact with certain skin-irritating substances, or mechanical stress.(1-2) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester can also promote the formation of important proteins in the epidermis, thereby helping to improve the epidermal skin barrier.(1)

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a synthetically produced, acetylated dipeptide ester. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a skin-care active ingredient for healthy aging, as it specifically helps to firm the skin’s structure. The dipeptide not only promotes elastin synthesis but also supports the functional organization of elastic fibers. Studies have shown that it stimulates key structural proteins responsible for the mechanical stability of the tissue. As a result, the skin gains elasticity and becomes more resistant to sagging and external stressors.(1-2)

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide and is frequently used as a neurocosmetic active ingredient. In in vitro studies, it modulates components of the SNARE complex, which can attenuate facial micro-contractions—a mechanism often described as “Botox-like” (a cosmetic, non-injectable mechanism).(1-2)

Clinical trials report a reduction in fine lines. In the eye area, brightening and soothing effects were also observed in areas where the skin appeared tired. Manufacturer data show that the activity of tyrosinase—a key enzyme in melanin production—can be inhibited (in vitro), thereby contributing to a more even skin tone.(3-4)

Allantoin is a skin-soothing active ingredient found in plants such as comfrey. In one study, a cream containing 0.5% allantoin was shown to accelerate skin regeneration and reduce redness following induced irritation. In addition, allantoin has an occlusive effect and can thus reduce transepidermal water loss.(1) In addition, allantoin has strong antioxidant properties and protects the skin from free radicals. (2)

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is aloe vera juice extracted from the leaves of the aloe vera plant. Numerous studies have shown that aloe vera promotes wound healing. It is also used to maintain the skin’s moisture and integrity.(1)

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharides are a prebiotic. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial bacteria that occur naturally on the skin and play an important role in maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.(1–3) When combined with inulin, alpha-glucan oligosaccharides can help relieve skin symptoms such as dryness and itching.(4)

Amino acids such as alanine, arginine, isoleucine, valine, proline, threonine, glycine, serine, histidine, phenylalanine, and aspartic acid, as well as their derivatives sodium PCA and PCA, help maintain the skin’s moisture balance in the outermost layer.(1) As natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) of the skin, they also help maintain the skin’s protective barrier.(2) The amino acids and their derivatives absorb moisture from the environment and store it in the skin’s lipid-protected corneocytes. In combination with lipids, which slow down water diffusion, amino acids help the corneocytes maintain their normal flattened, elongated shape, in which they can selectively bind and retain water.(3)

Arginine is an important amino acid that is highly valued in skincare for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties. It binds water, thereby improving the skin’s hydration and suppleness. Arginine also plays an essential role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration.(1-2)

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products because it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in treating dry skin.(3-4)

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its antioxidant properties.(1) It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human skin and is also capable of promoting collagen synthesis in deeper cells.(2-3) In a 2021 study, when combined with other substances such as rice peptides, it was shown to increase skin hydration, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote cell renewal in the epidermis.(4)

Astaxanthin isextractedfrom thegreen alga Haematococcus pluvialis. This alga is a source of valuable bioactive compounds, including astaxanthin and other carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A). It is found in a wide variety of organisms, ranging from tiny microorganisms to higher plants and animals. It is particularly well known for its pronounced antioxidant effect. Its antioxidant properties are based on its chemical structure. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals—unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage. Thanks to astaxanthin’s protective mechanism, premature skin aging is prevented.(1–3)

Its antioxidant effect in protecting cell membranes is stronger than that of vitamin C and vitamin E. Therefore, astaxanthin is considered the natural carotenoid with the strongest antioxidant effect.(4)

Research findings suggest that astaxanthin may be beneficial in treating inflammatory diseases. Due to its diverse functions in skin biology, astaxanthin is already being used in dermatology.(5)

A particular advantage of astaxanthin is that it contains both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (fat-loving) components. This allows astaxanthin to penetrate the skin’s bilayer more effectively and exert a more multifaceted effect there than other antioxidants.(6)

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil extracted from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.(1-8)

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially in the case of sensitive skin.

It soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Helps the skin retain moisture without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin.(1)

Bacillus Ferment is derived from acidophilic bacteria. In one study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis demonstrated particularly effective wound-healing properties.(1) According to the manufacturer, Bacillus Ferment increases the skin’s moisture levels by reducing transepidermal water loss. It strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating lipids and genes associated with the stratum corneum. It also protects keratinocytes from dehydration and promotes skin regeneration and repair by alleviating redness and increasing the skin’s firmness and elasticity.(2) Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we have also become aware of several active ingredients for which there is not yet a broad body of research, but which have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with the EU Cosmetics Regulation, and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Bacillus Ferment, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continually being discovered. Our mission is to consistently develop the most innovative formulations; therefore, in addition to the evidence-based foundation of active ingredients, we have also incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Bacillus Ferment into some of our products. Our active ingredient glossary is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new research findings and updated accordingly.

Baicalin is a plant-derived flavonoid found in the root of Scutellaria baicalensis (Chinese skullcap) that possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.(1-2) In in vitro studies, baicalin has also been shown to potentially slow cellular aging processes through its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.(3-4)

Behenyl alcohol is a long-chain fatty alcohol and is primarily used in skin care as an emollient or fat-soluble co-emulsifier. It helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and leaves the skin feeling smooth.(1-2)

Benzyl nicotinate stimulates blood circulation and, for example, in lip-plumping products, creates the desired redness and swelling of the skin to achieve a more voluminous effect.(1)

Betaine is a natural moisturizing factor. In cosmetics, it is used as an ingredient that binds moisture and keeps the skin supple. At the same time, betaine helps protect the skin from drying out. (1)

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a biotechnologically derived postbiotic made from bifidobacteria. We use a lysate: The bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions, cell wall components, and polysaccharide complexes are preserved. According to the manufacturer, the ferment can counteract UV-induced stress and activate natural cellular defense processes—with the goal of preventing signs of premature light-induced skin aging.(1) Studies also show that the lysate can reduce skin redness and irritation and modulate inflammatory responses by reducing the release of inflammatory mediators.(2) By strengthening the skin barrier’s resilience, it helps the skin defend against oxidative and inflammatory stress. It also supports the formation of proteins that help stabilize cellular structures in the skin.(3–4)

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is an emollient with excellent spreadability. It was developed as a substitute for lanolin, a common allergen.(1)

Bisabolol is an active ingredient (sesquiterpene) that was originally derived from plants, such as chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Chamomile extract therefore naturally contains α-bisabolol. The active ingredient is valued for its anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, and antimicrobial properties. Bisabolol can help alleviate skin irritation and support the regeneration of irritated skin or skin prone to redness.(1-5)

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil is derived from the rapeseed plant and is used in many cosmetic products. It has moisturizing and protective properties and a light texture. Its ingredients include, among other things, many essential fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. These components help to hydrate and protect the skin. It has been classified as safe as part of a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients.(1)

Butylene glycol is a dihydric alcohol that has moisturizing properties and serves as a solvent.(1)

Shea butter is a fat extracted from the kernels of the shea tree. The saponifiable fraction consists primarily of stearic and oleic acids, along with smaller amounts of palmitic, linoleic, and arachidic acids.(1–3) In addition, it contains a significant unsaponifiable fraction with bioactive substances, such as tocopherols (vitamin E), which have skin-improving properties.(1) At the molecular level, shea butter extracts have been shown to inhibit several cellular inflammatory pathways and can thus reduce skin irritation.(1–3) Shea butter can therefore soothe rough and chapped skin and has even been shown to be effective in the supportive treatment of eczema.(2)

C10-18 triglycerides are also known as neutral oil. In cosmetics, they act as both an emollient and a solvent.(1) These compounds consist of three fatty acids esterified with a glycerin molecule.(2-3) Triglycerides, including C10-18 triglycerides, are known in skincare for their moisturizing, skin barrier-protecting, and non-comedogenic properties. They improve the texture and stability of products and promote the absorption of active ingredients, making them suitable for all skin types.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a synthetic cosmetic oil that feels light and silky on the skin. It improves the spreadability of cosmetic formulations and has mildly occlusive properties that can reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Due to its structural properties, it is also frequently used as a solvent for chemical UV filters in sunscreen formulations. (1-2)

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester is an ester of ethylene glycol and C18-36 acid and acts as an emulsifier.(1)

C18-36 Acid Triglyceride is a synthetic lipid used as a skin care ingredient with occlusive properties.(1)

C32–54 isoalkanes is a mixture of branched, saturated hydrocarbons (isoalkanes). The designation “C32–54” describes the range of carbon chain lengths of the alkyl compounds it contains. In cosmetics, it has a skin-care effect by acting as a softening emollient that leaves the skin’s surface smooth and soft, thereby keeping the skin in good condition.(1)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a skin lipid that occurs naturally in sebum; it consists of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides).

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is used in cosmetic products because of its moisturizing properties; it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.(1)

It moisturizes by forming a light, non-greasy barrier and absorbs very quickly. As a dispersing agent, it can help distribute active ingredients such as vitamins evenly throughout a solution so that they can be easily absorbed by the epidermis.(2)

Caprylyl glycol serves several important functions in cosmetic products. It has both nourishing and moisturizing properties, as well as antimicrobial properties. The latter helps improve the stability of cosmetic products.(1-2) When combined with 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol enhances the preservative system, for example in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. Furthermore, study results have shown that caprylyl glycol is well tolerated by the skin.(3)

Capsicum Frutenscens Fruit Extract is a chili extract. The capsaicin it contains stimulates blood circulation, thereby increasing lip volume and enhancing the natural lip color.(1)

Carnosine is a dipeptide consisting of the amino acids alanine and histidine. It occurs naturally in high concentrations in muscle and brain tissue. Carnosine is a powerful antioxidant that promotes wound healing and can minimize redness.(1) In an ex vivo study, a cream containing 0.2% carnosine also demonstrated remarkable anti-glycation properties. Glycation is a reaction between proteins and sugars that leads to the formation and accumulation of certain advanced glycation end products (AGEs). These end products have also been found to be associated with extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. The glycation of collagen I, an essential structural protein in the dermis, impairs its function in a variety of ways. Studies have shown that glycated collagen and elastin exhibit altered biomechanical properties that lead to a loss of elasticity and increased stiffness, which in turn promotes the formation of wrinkles.(2)

Ceramides are among the most important dermal sphingolipids, which are part of the skin’s own lipids. They account for about half of the lipids in the stratum corneum. Ceramides have numerous structural and biological functions in the human epidermis; for example, they play a role in preventing transepidermal water loss. In addition, ceramides regulate processes such as cell division and differentiation of keratinocytes. (1) Ceramides are classified according to the length of their bound fatty acid or the sphingoid backbone, for example, as AP, NP, or EOP ceramides.(1) A study found that the facial skin of patients with mild to moderate acne vulgaris contained a significantly lower percentage of ceramides and sphingosines, while transepidermal water loss was significantly higher compared to healthy control subjects.(2) In vitro studies also showed that phytosphingosine inhibits the growth of bacteria, including Cutibacterium acnes, and subsequent in vivo studies confirmed its antimicrobial properties through a significant reduction in the total bacterial count on unwashed hands.(1)

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is primarily used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin.(1)

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate is the ester of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is used as a skin care ingredient (emollient) as well as a hair care ingredient.(1)

Cholesterol is a type of fat and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is a major component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes cholesterol on its own in the epidermis.

Following a disruption of the skin barrier, the early phase of repair is characterized by an increase in fatty acid and cholesterol biosynthesis, followed by epidermal sphingolipid synthesis. This highlights the importance of these epidermal lipids for the integrity and function of the skin barrier.(1)

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae rich in carrageenan that acts as a thickener and stabilizer. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysaccharides with promising properties, such as antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic activities. Its antioxidant effect is attributed to polyphenols.(1-2)

Coco-caprylate is an ester derived from (fatty) alcohols in coconut oil and caprylic acid (caprylate/caprate). In cosmetics, it acts as a skin-nourishing, softening emollient oil: it smooths the skin’s surface and leaves the skin feeling soft and well-cared-for.(1-2)

Copper tripeptide, also known as GHK-Cu, consists of three amino acids (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) that form a chelate complex with a copper ion. It is a signaling and carrier peptide and is among the most extensively researched peptides. It has been shown to possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.(1) GHK-Cu has also been shown to have a positive effect on fibroblasts, which are key cells involved in the skin’s regeneration and renewal processes.(2) Since copper is an important trace element that plays a key role in the production of collagen and elastin, GHK-Cu can serve as a natural source of copper for connective tissue synthesis.(3) It thus supports and stimulates the body’s own synthesis of collagen, elastin, and proteoglycans, which can improve skin elasticity and smoothness.(4-5)

Decyl oleate is an ester of oleic acid and decanol that is used as a smoothing, moisturizing emollient in skin care products. Because of its similarity to natural skin lipids, it improves the skin's feel.(1-2)

Dicaprylyl carbonate is a skin-conditioning and moisturizing emulsifier that helps improve the absorption of other ingredients in a cosmetic formula.(1)

Dimethicone is a synthetically produced silicone oil that is frequently used in cosmetics as a skin-smoothing emollient and anti-foaming agent. (1) In our Daily Defense SPF 30 Powder, dimethicone is not used as a standalone oil base, but solely as a coating for the zinc oxide particles.

Ectoine is a very special amino acid produced by bacteria that can survive extreme environmental conditions, such as severe drought, UV radiation, or high salt concentrations. This stress-protective ability can also be harnessed for the skin.

First, ectoine has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects on the skin and increases skin resilience.(1-2) In addition, ectoine is particularly effective at moisturizing the skin by minimizing transepidermal water loss and thus preventing the epidermis from drying out.(2) Ectoin in a skincare cream can improve indicators of skin aging, such as skin hydration, skin elasticity, and skin surface structure. (3) In cell studies, ectoin has even been shown to counteract UVA-induced skin aging at various cellular levels. (3–4)

Ethylhexyl palmitate is an alkyl ester that is frequently used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning ingredient.(1) Ethylhexyl palmitate is classified as an emollient.(2)

Ethylhexylglycerin inhibits the growth and reproduction of odor-causing bacteria and enhances the effectiveness of cosmetic preservatives.(1)

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is valued in skincare for its gentle and moisturizing properties. This PHA gently exfoliates the outermost layer of the skin and promotes cell renewal, making the skin appear smoother and more radiant. Compared to other hydroxy acids, gluconolactone is less irritating and therefore ideal for sensitive skin types. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Gluconolactone can be used in cosmetic products to support the skin barrier, reduce skin imperfections, and care for mature skin.(1-3)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Glyceryl caprylate is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a skin-conditioning ingredient as well as an emulsifier.(1)

Glyceryl caprylate (1) is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a moisturizing ingredient, but also as an emulsifier.(1)

Glyceryl glucoside is a moisturizing ingredient formed by the condensation of glycerin and glucose. In skincare, it is primarily used in products for dry, dehydrated, or compromised skin, as it can improve skin hydration and strengthen the skin barrier. (1)

In addition to its role as a humectant, recent studies suggest that glyceryl glucoside may promote the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) in keratinocytes. AQP3 is an important water and glycerin channel in the epidermis. By rebalancing this channel, glyceryl glucoside can help regulate water distribution in the skin, reduce transepidermal water loss, and thus support the skin’s hydration and barrier function. (2,3)

Glyceryl oleate is produced by the esterification of oleic acid with glycerin and acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer, as well as a moisturizing ingredient in cleansing products that can even strengthen the skin’s natural lipid barrier and smooth the skin.(1)

Glyceryl stearate (1) is the monoester of glycerin and stearic acid. It acts as a conditioning agent, but also as an emulsifier.

Glyceryl stearate citrate is an emulsifier that also acts as an emollient and skin care ingredient.(1) It is synthesized from glycerin and stearic acid.(2) In skin care, it is used to improve skin hydration and barrier function and to reduce irritation.

In an in vivo study, glycine soja protein, in combination with superoxide dismutase and hydrolyzed rice protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Helianthus annuus seed oil is the botanical name for sunflower oil. It is extracted from the seeds of the sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and contains a high proportion of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.(1)

Linoleic acid is important for maintaining the skin barrier, helps prevent water loss, and plays a role in regulating cell division, epidermal differentiation, and, consequently, in controlling skin desquamation.(2)

Sunflower oil has skin-protecting properties. It is particularly well-suited for mature, sensitive, dry, damaged, or inflamed skin. This versatile oil is recommended for all skin types and is used in numerous skincare products. It moisturizes, regenerates, protects, and nourishes the skin without clogging the pores.(3)

Helianthus annuus seed wax is derived from sunflower seeds and is used in cosmetics as an emollient and viscosity modifier.(1)

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, also known as Perfection Peptide P3, is a biologically active tripeptide that reactivates the skin’s natural exfoliation process. By regulating the exfoliation process, the peptide improves skin quality and can thus help reduce the appearance of skin imperfections. It can accelerate skin cell renewal and provide the skin with intense hydration.(1)

Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we have also identified several active ingredients for which there is not yet a broad body of research, but which have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with the EU Cosmetics Regulation, and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continually being discovered. Our mission is to consistently develop the most innovative formulations; therefore, in addition to the evidence-based active ingredient foundation, we have also incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate into some of our products. Our active ingredient glossary is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new research findings and is updated accordingly.

Hippophae rhamnoides extract is a plant extract derived from sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides, family Elaeagnaceae).(1) In our formulation, we use an extract derived from upcycled leaves, which, due to its composition (including phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins, and organic acids), is used as an antioxidant and skin-nourishing ingredient. According to the manufacturer, it improves the appearance of dark circles and puffiness and leaves the eye area looking fresher.(2)

Hyaluronic acid is one of the primary factors in skin hydration, along with lipids, natural moisturizing factors, sebum, and aquaporin. As the predominant component of the extracellular matrix, hyaluronic acid plays an essential role in maintaining skin hydration. Hyaluronic acid is produced as early as the embryonic development stage, making it one of the first components of the extracellular matrix. In addition to its ability to bind water, the molecule acts as a lubricant during skin movements between the collagen and elastic fiber networks in the dermis. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid can influence cellular metabolism.(1)

Hydrogenated coco-glycerides are hydrogenated mono-, di-, and triglycerides derived from coconut fatty acids.(1) In cosmetic formulations, they are used as emollients/skin care agents.(2)

Hydrogenated lecithin is the end product of the controlled hydrogenation of lecithin and has the same functions as lecithin. It also acts as a suspending agent.(1)

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-nourishing properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it especially pleasant to use.(1-8)

Advantages:

Soothes skin irritation and helps relieve itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling soft and supple.

Supports the skin's natural barrier and strengthens dry, rough, or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Hydrogenated palm glyceride citrates are compounds in which mono-, di-, and triglycerides derived from hydrogenated palm oil are esterified with citric acid. In skincare, they are used as effective ingredients to nourish the skin and give it a supple and smooth appearance.(1)

A rapeseed oil derivative used as an emollient, skin care ingredient, and viscosity modifier.(1)

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate is an esterified mixture of hydrogenated vegetable glycerides and citric acid. In cosmetics, it is used as an emollient, stabilizer, and co-emulsifier. It improves the texture and stability of emulsions, prevents oil- and water-based ingredients from separating, and helps ensure a smooth, silky application on the skin. Additionally, it supports skin care by keeping the skin soft and supple. (1-2)

Hydrolyzed jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis). It is an excellent moisturizer and, when combined with glycerin, provides moisture for at least 24 hours.(1-2)

Because of its chemical similarity to human sebum, it supports the skin's natural balance, forms a non-greasy film to lock in moisture, and regulates sebum production without clogging pores.(3)

In an in vivo study, hydrolyzed rice protein, in combination with superoxide dismutase and soy protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Inulin is a polysaccharide and is classified as a prebiotic. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial bacteria that occur naturally on the skin and play an important role in maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.(1–3) As a prebiotic, inulin thus has the potential to contribute to a healthy skin barrier.(4–5) When combined with alpha-glucan oligosaccharides, inulin can alleviate skin symptoms such as dryness and itching.(6)

Kefiran is a vegan, skin-nourishing active ingredient obtained through the fermentation of the bacterial strain Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens in a plant-based culture medium; it is present as a component of a ferment lysate. (1)

In skincare, kefiran is considered a versatile active ingredient: It helps the skin defend against free radicals, counteracts oxidative stress, and can reduce redness. It also helps strengthen the skin barrier and promotes skin elasticity and firmness. This makes kefiran particularly suitable for skincare products designed to protect, regenerate, and soothe the skin. (1,2)

Lactic acid acts, depending on the concentration used, as a natural moisturizing factor or as an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), which gently exfoliates the skin and provides moisture. Lactic acid also stimulates ceramide biosynthesis and improves the skin’s barrier function. By stimulating ceramide synthesis, the ceramide content in the skin is increased, which strengthens the skin barrier and improves the skin’s structural integrity.(1–4)

Lactobacillus Ferment is a biotechnologically derived active ingredient (postbiotic) produced through the fermentation of Lactobacillus crispatus. It helps improve skin elasticity, reduces the appearance of crow’s feet (lateral eye wrinkles), and promotes an even complexion.(1) Studies report a reduction in fine lines and an improvement in skin elasticity.(2)

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is obtained through optimized fermentation of Lactobacillus pentosus. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate improves skin barrier function by increasing the production of tight junction proteins, which help stabilize the cellular networks in the skin.(1) Manufacturer studies have shown that Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate inhibits the secretion of inflammatory cytokines. Overall, these results indicate that Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate possesses anti-inflammatory properties that can strengthen the skin’s barrier function, limit transepidermal water loss, increase skin hydration, and support the skin’s recovery from external aggressors.(2)

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a lysate derived from the lactic acid-producing bacterium Lactococcus lactis. We use a biotechnologically produced lysate: The bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions, and cell wall components are preserved. The ferment can support desquamation (gentle shedding of dead skin cells), promote the restoration of the skin barrier after damage, and support a balanced skin microbiome.(1) It supports skin hydration and can help stabilize the skin’s natural pH level.(2) It also exhibits antioxidant properties (in vitro) and helps neutralize free radicals.(3)

Lauroyl lysine is an ingredient used in cosmetics primarily as a sensory modifier and texture enhancer. This derivative of the amino acid lysine improves the skin feel and application properties of cosmetic products.(1)

Lecithin, also known as phosphatidylcholine, is the most commonly used neutral phospholipid. It is used as a skin-conditioning emulsifier, a solvent for pigments, and an antioxidant.(1) Phosphatidylcholine can be completely metabolized and also supplies the skin with two essential substances: linoleic acid and choline.(2) Lecithin is also frequently used to form liposomes. Liposomes enable active ingredients to be transported through the stratum corneum.(3)

Levulinic acid is a skin care ingredient that has antimicrobial properties and masks unpleasant raw material odors.(1-2)

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and belongs to the group of essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a skin-lightening effect, which is attributed to the suppression of melanin production and increased exfoliation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It is used in a variety of ways in cosmetic formulations—for example, as an absorbent, a binder, an emulsion stabilizer, and a film-forming agent, as well as a skin care ingredient and a hair conditioner.(1) In addition, maltodextrin often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation.(2)

Morinda citrifolia callus culture lysate is a biotechnologically derived plant extract from the cell cultures of the noni plant (Morinda citrifolia) that contains a variety of bioactive compounds. According to studies, noni exhibits antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory properties that can help protect against environmental stress, support the skin barrier, and reduce oxidative processes in skincare products.(1-4)

The biotechnologically derived active ingredient from noni plant stem cells works through an innovative mechanism: It inhibits bacterial communication (quorum sensing), thereby supporting the balance of the skin microbiome and helping to counteract blemishes, excess sebum, and skin redness—without disrupting the natural microbiota.(5)

Myristyl Myristate is an emulsifier and a plant-based, waxy fatty acid ester. As a consistency-enhancing agent, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improves the formulation’s texture by creating a smooth and silky consistency. This makes the emulsion easier to apply, improves absorption into the skin, and leaves the skin feeling silky and powdery.

Octyldodecanol is a long-chain fatty alcohol. In formulations, it acts as a skin conditioner and emollient, or it dissolves certain active ingredients and fragrances (solvent).(1-2)

Octyldodecyl myristate is an ester of myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid) and 2-octyldodecanol.(1) In cosmetic formulations, it acts as a mild emollient that makes the skin soft and supple.(2)

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid that acts as an emulsifier, enabling the formation of oil-in-water emulsions. Oleic acid can support wound healing by stimulating repair processes in the skin.(1) At higher concentrations, oleic acid can also increase skin permeability, thereby improving, for example, the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.(2)

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride consists of a mixture of plant-derived polyglycerides containing linoleic, linolenic, and oleic acids. In clinical trials, the polyglyceride mixture was shown to hydrate the top three layers of the epidermis and slightly reduce fine lines.(1)

Olus Oil is a vegetable oil or vegetable oil blend consisting primarily of fatty acid triglycerides. It is used in skin care as an emollient that softens the skin and, as a natural fatty base, improves the texture of creams and oils.(1)

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a peptide derived from the reaction between palmitic acid and pentapeptide-4. It is also known as Matrixyl and consists of a short peptide chain containing five amino acids (lysine, threonine, threonine, lysine, serine) bound to palmitic acid.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a biologically active peptide that has been reported to stimulate the production of elastin, fibronectin, glucosaminoglycans, and collagens (particularly types I, III, and IV), as well as to support wound healing.1 In studies, it has been shown to be effective in reducing periorbital wrinkles by decreasing wrinkle depth and improving skin barrier function and skin elasticity.(1-3)

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a component of certain antibodies with the sequence Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Together with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, it is also known as Matrixyl™3000. In studies, Matrixyl™3000 has been shown to result in a statistically significant reduction in wrinkle length and depth, as well as in skin roughness, and an increase in skin thickness.(1)

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide decreases the release of a proinflammatory signaling protein and thus reduces inflammation following UVB exposure. (2-3)

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a peptide obtained as the reaction product of palmitic acid and tripeptide-1. Together with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, it is also known as Matrixyl™3000 and consists of a short peptide chain containing three amino acids (glycine, histidine, and lysine = GHK peptide) bound to the fatty acid palmitic acid.

In ex vivo studies, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 has been shown to have the ability, on its own, to stimulate the synthesis of type 1 collagen in the body and to prevent collagen breakdown following UVA exposure.(1) In studies, Matrixyl™3000 has been shown to result in a statistically significant reduction in wrinkle length and depth, as well as skin roughness, and an increase in skin thickness.(2)

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a synthetic peptide consisting of the amino acids lysine, methionine, and lysyl, bound to palmitic acid. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a component of the complex known as Volulip™. In the manufacturer’s in vivo studies, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface texture, and volume), as well as in hydration and youthfulness (more defined contours and a plumping effect), in at least 69% of the female participants.(2) It belongs to the class of “matrikin-mimetic compounds,” which play a key role in the synthesis of elastin and collagen. In addition, it can stimulate cell proliferation. Palmitic acid, as an ingredient, also has antioxidant properties. It is considered suitable for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.(1)

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a synthetic tripeptide used in cosmetics as a skin-care active ingredient for “well-aging.” As a matrikin-like peptide, it can target signaling pathways in the extracellular matrix and thereby smooth the skin’s texture: Manufacturer data report a visible reduction in fine lines (e.g., forehead, crow’s feet) with regular use. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a so-called matrix peptide that stimulates the production of key components of the skin matrix—including collagen I, III, and IV, as well as hyaluronic acid.(1) These structures provide the skin with elasticity and firmness. In clinical studies, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 was shown to visibly reduce wrinkle depth. In formulations, it thus helps maintain healthy skin and a more even skin texture.(1-3)

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is well absorbed when applied topically to the skin and is rapidly oxidized enzymatically in the body to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Vitamin B5 is a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in various physiological processes such as intracellular lipid synthesis in the epidermis.(1-2) Panthenol penetrates the skin more effectively than vitamin B5 and is very well tolerated.(1–3) Panthenol has skin-nourishing and moisturizing effects and strengthens the skin’s barrier function.(2–5) In dry skin, it compensates for reduced hydration by increasing water content and positively influencing the molecular mobility of the lipid lamellae and proteins in the stratum corneum, thereby also reducing transepidermal water loss.(4–5) Panthenol can support wound healing in cases of burns, scalds, corneal lesions, and allergic dermatitis during all three phases of wound healing and has a protective effect against skin irritation.(5–6)

Pentylene glycol is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetic products. Due to its versatile functions, it is a valuable ingredient in the cosmetics industry. It can act as a humectant, a solvent, and a skin and hair care agent. In addition, pentylene glycol helps improve the stability of cosmetic products.(1)

Phytosphingosines are sphingolipids that occur naturally in the stratum corneum both in free form and as part of the main ceramide fraction. Phytosphingosines are known to strengthen the skin barrier. In addition, by influencing the filaggrin signaling pathway, phytosphingosines have a moisturizing effect and promote the formation of natural moisturizing factors.(1) Furthermore, phytosphingosines demonstrate excellent clinical results in skincare for acne, based on both their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.(2-3)

Polyamide-8 is an oil-structuring polymer used in sunscreen and makeup products. It stabilizes pigment dispersions, improves shelf life, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin. Due to its film-forming properties, polyamide-8 contributes to wear resistance and thus improves the product’s abrasion resistance.(1)

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate is an ester compound consisting of polyglycerin and lauric acid. Polyglyceryl-10 laurate acts as a mild emulsifier.

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate is the ester of stearic acid and a glycerin polymer. It serves as a skin-conditioning ingredient with emulsifying properties.(1)

Purslane is a succulent, and in the form of an extract, it is a component of the complex known as Volulip™. In the manufacturer’s in vivo studies, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface texture, and volume), as well as in hydration and youthfulness (more defined contours and a plumping effect), in at least 69% of the female participants.(1)

Potassium Lactate is the potassium salt of lactic acid and is frequently used as an excipient in cosmetic formulations. In skin care, it also serves as a humectant, as it binds water and thus helps protect the skin from drying out. In addition, potassium lactate has skin-nourishing properties and helps the skin feel comfortable. Thanks to its buffering properties, it also helps regulate and stabilize the pH of cosmetic products, which is important for the formulation’s tolerability and effectiveness. (1)

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, also known as sweet almond oil, is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the almond tree (Prunus amygdalus). It is rich in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and oleic acids, which are also naturally found in the skin barrier. This plant-based oil is well-tolerated and leaves even dry skin feeling supple.(1) In addition, sweet almond oil contains large amounts of vitamins E and K, which promote skin regeneration and maintain its elasticity.(2)

Plum seed oil has antioxidant properties and is rich in valuable fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic acids. It has skin-repairing properties, spreads easily, and is non-greasy.(1)

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is produced using yeasts of the genus Pseudozyma. The fermentation process creates bioactive compounds that can enhance the oil’s skin-nourishing properties.(1–3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties.(1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care.(4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the skin’s microbial diversity (alpha diversity) and positively influence the skin microbiome.(1)

Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, is a vitamin A derivative (retinoid). Retinoids increase collagen levels in the upper dermis by inhibiting collagen breakdown and stimulating collagen synthesis. Retinal is a natural precursor to retinoic acid, meaning it requires only a single conversion step to be oxidized into its active form. According to recent studies, retinal is considered the most effective over-the-counter retinoid, offering a favorable balance of efficacy and tolerability.(1)

Retinal is a popular active ingredient for treating skin with signs of photoaging and is generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. A randomized, double-blind study investigated the effects of 0.05% and 0.1% retinal on photoaged skin. Both concentrations resulted in an improvement in general signs of photoaging as well as a significant improvement in fine wrinkles and skin roughness. In addition, both concentrations reduced transepidermal water loss and increased the skin’s moisture content. 0.1% retinal also resulted in a significant improvement in skin pigmentation. Both concentrations were well tolerated.(2)

The conversion of retinal to retinoic acid occurs only in keratinocytes at a specific stage of differentiation, which results in a more controlled uptake of retinoic acid. This leads to milder retinoid-related side effects, such as skin irritation or redness, compared to tretinoin and other retinoids, which is why retinal is generally better tolerated.(3)

In another study, a 0.05% retinal solution was shown to significantly increase epidermal thickness and skin elasticity. The retinal treatment also led to an increase in dermal thickness and a reduction in skin stiffness, and was very well tolerated by the patients.(4)

In an ex vivo study, significant repair of elastic fibers and collagen changes caused by UV radiation, as well as increased collagen synthesis, were observed.(5)

Overall, it can be concluded that 0.05–0.1% retinal is effective in reducing signs of skin aging.

Retinal has mild comedolytic properties.(6) In a study examining the antibacterial activity of retinal against C. acnes, daily topical application of 0.05% retinal was also associated with a significant reduction in C. acnes density. This finding suggests direct antibacterial activity.(7)

In another study, 0.05% retinal, when applied topically, exhibited the same activity profile as 0.025% retinoic acid, namely a comedolytic and epidermal-thickening effect. The study’s results support the topical use of retinal in the treatment of acne.(8)

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly well-suited for blemish-prone skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid may help reduce skin blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin’s surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion.(1-5)

Sclerotium gum is a nonionic polysaccharide produced microbially by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is characterized by a linear chain of glucose units.(1-2) It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity modifier, and conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations.(2-3)

Sesamum indicum, or sesame, is a plant native primarily to tropical regions. The active ingredient is extracted from the seeds and consists of various fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, as well as other fatty acids, most of which are unsaturated.(1) It also has antioxidant properties.(2) In cosmetic products, it is also often used because of the myristic acid it contains, as this acts as a stabilizing emulsifier.(1) It has been classified as safe as part of a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients.(3)

Jojoba oil is a wax ester; due to its chemical similarity to human sebum, it supports the skin’s natural balance, forms a non-greasy film to retain moisture, and regulates sebum production without clogging the pores.(1)

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide consisting of glycosidically linked glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine monomers. Our skin serves as the body’s primary reservoir of hyaluronic acid, as it stores approximately half of the body’s total hyaluronic acid content. Under optimal conditions, hyaluronic acid is found in all layers of the epidermis and dermis. Hyaluronic acid is a major component of the extracellular matrix in tissues such as connective tissue, and it has the ability to bind large amounts of water, which is why it is used in cosmetics, among other applications, as a moisturizer. It also performs many important functions, such as the formation of proteoglycans.(1)

Sodium levulinate is the sodium salt of levulinic acid. As a preservative, it can help improve the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms. In the European Union, there are no restrictions on the use of sodium levulinate in cosmetic products; it is considered non-irritating and safe.(1)

Sodium polyglutamate is the sodium salt of polyglutamic acid, a biopolymer obtained through fermentation consisting of linked glutamic acid units. Due to its high molecular weight, it acts primarily on the skin’s surface, where it forms a moisture-retaining film. The active ingredient provides immediate hydration, improves skin elasticity, and leaves the skin feeling pleasant. It can also enhance the stability of hyaluronic acid. (1-3)

Squalane is the stable, saturated form of squalene, a natural component of human sebum that is also found in plants such as olives. The raw material is a clear, colorless, and odorless oil. It is characterized by its high stability. Squalane has a moisturizing effect by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Thanks to its skin-like structure, it is easily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It also supports skin regeneration.(1-3)

Sucrose Cocoate is a mild, moisturizing surfactant composed of fatty acid esters derived from coconut oil and sucrose esters. It is considered suitable for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.(1)

Sucrose stearate (sucrose ester) is used as an emulsifier and skin care ingredient.(1) It consists of esters of sucrose and fatty acids with various hydrophilic and lipophilic properties. Due to their gel-forming properties, they are used in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries.(2-3)

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an antioxidant enzyme used in skincare to combat oxidative stress, reduce premature skin aging, and protect against environmental damage (including UV radiation). It plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative stress by catalyzing the dismutation of superoxide radicals (O2-) into oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. SOD acts as a cellular defense mechanism, protecting cells from damage to DNA, proteins, and lipids.(1-2)

In an in vivo study, superoxide dismutase, combined with glycine soja protein and hydrolyzed rice protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(3)

Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a powerful antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and other environmental factors. In the skin, it protects cellular structures such as lipids, proteins, and DNA from free radicals, thereby helping to prevent light-induced skin aging (photoaging).(1-3)

Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetic products. It helps protect the skin from free radicals. Compared to free tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate is significantly more stable when exposed to oxygen, light, and heat, making it particularly suitable for light-sensitive formulations such as sunscreens. Studies show that, in appropriate formulations, tocopheryl acetate can alleviate UV-induced skin reactions such as redness and swelling. Due to its good stability, it is used in many skincare products to support the skin barrier and protect against light-induced skin aging.(1-3)

Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract, or silver ear, better known as snow mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), is a species of fungus belonging to the Tremelaceae family. It contains polysaccharides composed of mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid.(1) These polysaccharides form a film on the skin’s surface that increases its water-binding capacity and maintains the skin’s moisture content.1 In addition, Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract has strong antioxidant properties and thus protects against free radicals.(2-3)

Tribehenin has a wax-like consistency, which allows it to give cosmetic products a creamy to waxy texture. It is considered suitable for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe as part of a safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.(1)

Trihydroxystearin is the triester of glycerin and hydroxystearic acid. It is used as a skin conditioner, solvent, and viscosity regulator in cosmetic formulations at concentrations of up to 5%. (1-2)

Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate is the diester of dilinoleic acid and polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate.(1) It is a high-molecular-weight, high-polymer ester used in cosmetics. Due to its high-gloss properties, it is ideal for use in lip products such as lip gloss and lipstick formulations. In skin care products, it serves as a moisturizer.(2)

Undecane is a saturated hydrocarbon with 11 carbon atoms (C11) that can be of mineral or plant origin. This colorless liquid has skin-conditioning and emollient properties in cosmetics: As a mild emollient, it smooths the skin’s surface, leaves the skin feeling soft, and helps keep the skin in good condition.(1)

Vanillyl butyl ether is oil-soluble and produces a long-lasting, gentle sensation of warmth on the skin, which in turn causes vasodilation without unwanted side effects such as irritation or itching. This vasodilation results in a plumping effect.(1)

Vitis vinifera seed oil, better known as grape seed oil, is extracted from grape seeds—a valuable byproduct of winemaking. It is valued in skincare for its skin-nourishing properties and high antioxidant activity.(1-5)

Grape seed oil contains a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (omega-6), as well as vitamin E, phytosterols, and phytochemicals such as catechins and gallic acid. These bioactive components can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, strengthen its barrier function, and reduce moisture loss.(2)

Studies show that Vitis vinifera seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties due to its composition. It can be used in cosmetic formulations to support the skin barrier, soothe the skin, and improve the overall appearance of the skin.(1, 3)

In addition, recent findings suggest that compounds derived from Vitis vinifera may also help support the skin microbiome and regulate inflammatory skin processes.(4)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.(1-2)

Yeast extract, also known as Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, effectively relieves itching.(1) In addition, this active ingredient has moisturizing, wound-healing, and cell-renewing effects. It possesses antioxidant and immunomodulatory properties that can improve skin quality.(2)

Zingiber Zerumbet Extract is a plant extract derived from broad-leaved ginger (Zingiber zerumbet). In cosmetic formulations, it is used as a skin care ingredient and contains phytochemicals with antioxidant properties. Manufacturer data (in vitro) indicate a reduction in oxidative and micro-inflammatory stress. In observational studies (in vivo), an improvement in the appearance of dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, as well as a fresher-looking eye area, was reported. In addition, the extract can refine the skin’s texture.(1)

Acacia decurrens (also known as mimosa wax), or black pine in German, belongs to the Fabaceae family. The lipids from the flower extract have skin-conditioning and occlusive properties. Acacia Decurrens wax contains a mixture of free fatty acids, saturated monoesters, and a large amount of odd-numbered hydrocarbon chains. As a wax, it has skin-protecting and film-forming properties.(1)

Allantoin is a skin-soothing active ingredient found in plants such as comfrey. In one study, a cream containing 0.5% allantoin was shown to accelerate skin regeneration and reduce redness following induced irritation. In addition, allantoin has an occlusive effect and can thus reduce transepidermal water loss.(1) In addition, allantoin has strong antioxidant properties and protects the skin from free radicals. (2)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Dimethicone is a synthetically produced silicone oil that is frequently used in cosmetics as a skin-smoothing emollient and anti-foaming agent. (1) In our Daily Defense SPF 30 Powder, dimethicone is not used as a standalone oil base, but solely as a coating for the zinc oxide particles.

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil, also known as sea buckthorn pulp oil, is obtained by cold-pressing or centrifuging the pulp of the sea buckthorn berry. The reddish-orange oil is characterized by its high content of bioactive compounds such as unsaturated fatty acids (e.g., palmitoleic acid), carotenoids, tocopherols, and flavonoids.(1-2)

In skincare, it is primarily used for its regenerative, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. It can strengthen the skin barrier, retain moisture, and alleviate signs of dryness or irritation. Due to its antioxidant effects, it is also considered helpful in combating premature skin aging caused by environmental factors.(3-4)

Polyamide-8 is an oil-structuring polymer used in sunscreen and makeup products. It stabilizes pigment dispersions, improves shelf life, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin. Due to its film-forming properties, polyamide-8 contributes to wear resistance and thus improves the product’s abrasion resistance.(1)

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is produced using yeasts of the genus Pseudozyma. The fermentation process creates bioactive compounds that can enhance the oil’s skin-nourishing properties.(1–3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties.(1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care.(4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the skin’s microbial diversity (alpha diversity) and positively influence the skin microbiome.(1)

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted significant interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effects includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin-lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effects against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and helps increase the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external factors.(1, 4, 5)

The body of research supports the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly well-suited for blemish-prone skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid may help reduce skin blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin’s surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion.(1-5)

Sodium lactate, a highly moisturizing active ingredient that increases the skin's water-binding capacity.(1)

Dehydroacetic acid is a synthetically produced preservative used in cosmetic formulations. It protects products from microbial spoilage and contributes to product safety and shelf life.(1)

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has been used in cosmetic products for decades. Phenoxyethanol has a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity and is effective against various Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria as well as yeasts, while having only a weak inhibitory effect on the skin’s natural flora.(1) According to the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, phenoxyethanol is safe for all consumers (including children of all ages) when used as a preservative in cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of 1%. It can be considered one of the best-tolerated preservatives in cosmetic products.(1)

Potassium sorbate is a preservative used in cosmetics that has antimicrobial properties. It helps extend the shelf life of cosmetic products. The substance occurs naturally in berries, for example, but is usually produced synthetically for use in cosmetics. In rare cases, potassium sorbate can cause mild skin irritation.(1)

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly well-suited for blemish-prone skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid may help reduce skin blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin’s surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion.(1-5)

Sodium benzoate is a preservative generally recognized as safe that has bacteriostatic and fungistatic effects in an acidic environment.(1)

Sodium dehydroacetate is used as a preservative in cosmetic products.(1) It protects the formulation from microbial spoilage and is an officially approved preservative under the EU Cosmetics Regulation.

Sodium metabisulfite is a preservative. It is used in both cosmetics and food products.(1)

Disodium phosphate (disodium hydrogen phosphate) is a synthetically produced buffer that regulates and stabilizes the pH of cosmetic formulations. It can also act as a corrosion inhibitor.(1-2)

Sodium benzoate is a preservative generally recognized as safe that has bacteriostatic and fungistatic effects in an acidic environment.(1)

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is a modern chemical UV filter with a particularly broad absorption spectrum ranging from 280 to 400 nm. It protects against both UVA and UVB radiation and is considered highly photostable. BEMT is oil-soluble and is ideal for broad-spectrum protective formulations with a high SPF.(1)

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is a sunscreen ingredient, also known as avobenzone, that provides UVA protection. This light brown, crystalline powder has a faint odor. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane also protects cosmetic products from photooxidation.(1)

Cholesterol is a type of fat and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is a major component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes cholesterol on its own in the epidermis.

Following a disruption of the skin barrier, the early phase of repair is characterized by an increase in fatty acid and cholesterol biosynthesis, followed by epidermal sphingolipid synthesis. This highlights the importance of these epidermal lipids for the integrity and function of the skin barrier.(1)

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a modern, chemical UVA filter with an absorption range of 320 to 400 nm. DHHB provides reliable protection against long-wave UVA radiation—a major cause of premature skin aging—and, when combined with effective UVB filters, further enhances SPF performance. DHHB is oil-soluble and is ideal for long-lasting sunscreen formulations.(1)

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, also known as Iscotrizinol, is an effective UVB filter that is highly soluble in oils. Due to its high specific extinction and excellent solubility, it is considered very efficient. Diethylhexyl butamido triazone can be used in any cosmetic formulation containing a suitable lipid phase, either alone or in combination with one or more UV filters. It can also be used in combination with inorganic UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) is a photostable chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. EHT is a UVB filter suitable for use in sunscreens.(1)

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate is an esterified mixture of hydrogenated vegetable glycerides and citric acid. In cosmetics, it is used as an emollient, stabilizer, and co-emulsifier. It improves the texture and stability of emulsions, prevents oil- and water-based ingredients from separating, and helps ensure a smooth, silky application on the skin. Additionally, it supports skin care by keeping the skin soft and supple. (1-2)

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that can act as a thickener, suspending agent, film-forming agent, and stabilizer.(1)

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA) is a water-soluble chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. As a UVB absorber, PBSA specifically protects the skin from sun-related damage such as sunburn. It can be ideally combined with other UV filters.(1)

1,2-Hexanediol, together with caprylyl glycol, enhances the preservative system in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. The combination of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol also moisturizes and nourishes the skin. Studies have shown that this preservative system is very gentle on the skin and does not cause irritation.(1)

2,3-Butanediol is a diol with moisturizing and stabilizing properties. In skin care, it is used as a versatile excipient—among other things, to bind moisture, improve texture, and act as a dispersant for poorly soluble active ingredients.(1)

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, is typically used as a preservative in cosmetics. When applied topically (to the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. Ethanol is widely used for topical application, and there are very few reports of adverse effects.(1)

Water is a solvent for hydrophilic active ingredients, such as those in the aqueous phase of emulsions.

Butylene glycol is a dihydric alcohol that has moisturizing properties and serves as a solvent.(1)

C10-18 triglycerides are also known as neutral oil. In cosmetics, they act as both an emollient and a solvent.(1) These compounds consist of three fatty acids esterified with a glycerin molecule.(2-3) Triglycerides, including C10-18 triglycerides, are known in skincare for their moisturizing, skin barrier-protecting, and non-comedogenic properties. They improve the texture and stability of products and promote the absorption of active ingredients, making them suitable for all skin types.

Alkanes are linear, saturated hydrocarbons that are used in cosmetics as light oils or solvents—often as an alternative to silicones. Many conventional alkanes are derived from petroleum. We rely on a raw material that comes from plant sources and is readily biodegradable. We deliberately chose this ingredient to create a product with a pleasant sensory experience while also offering a more environmentally friendly alternative to silicone oils.(1)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a skin lipid that occurs naturally in sebum; it consists of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides).

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is used in cosmetic products because of its moisturizing properties; it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.(1)

It moisturizes by forming a light, non-greasy barrier and absorbs very quickly. As a dispersing agent, it can help distribute active ingredients such as vitamins evenly throughout a solution so that they can be easily absorbed by the epidermis.(2)

Dimethylisosorbide is a solvent that, due to its high penetrating power, is used to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin. This can improve the effectiveness of the various ingredients.(1)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Helianthus annuus seed oil is the botanical name for sunflower oil. It is extracted from the seeds of the sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and contains a high proportion of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.(1)

Linoleic acid is important for maintaining the skin barrier, helps prevent water loss, and plays a role in regulating cell division, epidermal differentiation, and, consequently, in controlling skin desquamation.(2)

Sunflower oil has skin-protecting properties. It is particularly well-suited for mature, sensitive, dry, damaged, or inflamed skin. This versatile oil is recommended for all skin types and is used in numerous skincare products. It moisturizes, regenerates, protects, and nourishes the skin without clogging the pores.(3)

Octyldodecanol is a long-chain fatty alcohol. In formulations, it acts as a skin conditioner and emollient, or it dissolves certain active ingredients and fragrances (solvent).(1-2)

Pentylene glycol is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetic products. Due to its versatile functions, it is a valuable ingredient in the cosmetics industry. It can act as a humectant, a solvent, and a skin and hair care agent. In addition, pentylene glycol helps improve the stability of cosmetic products.(1)

Phenylpropanol is an organic compound that belongs to the group of aromatic alcohols and exhibits reliable antimicrobial activity.(1) In addition, phenylpropanol is a non-sensitizing substance that masks unpleasant raw material odors.(2)

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a natural humectant that is environmentally sustainable. It serves as a solvent and preservative while also providing moisture.

Triethyl citrate, also known as citric acid ester, is a solvent and diluent and is not considered to be a skin sensitizer. It is even approved for use in food products.(1)

A study also investigated the efficacy of a formulation containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate on acne vulgaris. Triethyl citrate is hydrolyzed by C. acnes (which triggers acne under certain circumstances) into the diethyl ester and monoethyl ester of citric acid, as well as citric acid itself. As a result, the microenvironment of the pores becomes acidic, leading to reduced growth of C. acnes, inhibition of bacterial lipases, and modulation of the keratolytic effect.(2)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Sodium chloride, also known as table salt, is used in low concentrations and acts as a thickening agent in cleaning products.

Sodium phytate is the sodium salt of phytic acid, which is derived from plants and acts as a chelating agent. Chelating agents are substances used in cosmetic products to neutralize metal ions in the formulation.(1) What makes this chelating agent unique is that it not only acts as a preservative but also possesses antioxidant properties.(2)

Vanillyl butyl ether is oil-soluble and produces a long-lasting, gentle sensation of warmth on the skin, which in turn causes vasodilation without unwanted side effects such as irritation or itching. This vasodilation results in a plumping effect.(1)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a skin lipid that occurs naturally in sebum; it consists of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides).

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is used in cosmetic products because of its moisturizing properties; it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.(1)

It moisturizes by forming a light, non-greasy barrier and absorbs very quickly. As a dispersing agent, it can help distribute active ingredients such as vitamins evenly throughout a solution so that they can be easily absorbed by the epidermis.(2)

Ethylhexyl palmitate is an alkyl ester that is frequently used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning ingredient.(1) Ethylhexyl palmitate is classified as an emollient.(2)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Glyceryl oleate is produced by the esterification of oleic acid with glycerin and acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer, as well as a moisturizing ingredient in cleansing products that can even strengthen the skin’s natural lipid barrier and smooth the skin.(1)

Levulinic acid is a skin care ingredient that has antimicrobial properties and masks unpleasant raw material odors.(1-2)

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and belongs to the group of essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a skin-lightening effect, which is attributed to the suppression of melanin production and increased exfoliation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Octyldodecanol is a long-chain fatty alcohol. In formulations, it acts as a skin conditioner and emollient, or it dissolves certain active ingredients and fragrances (solvent).(1-2)

Phenylpropanol is an organic compound that belongs to the group of aromatic alcohols and exhibits reliable antimicrobial activity.(1) In addition, phenylpropanol is a non-sensitizing substance that masks unpleasant raw material odors.(2)

Triethyl citrate, also known as citric acid ester, is a solvent and diluent and is not considered to be a skin sensitizer. It is even approved for use in food products.(1)

A study also investigated the efficacy of a formulation containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate on acne vulgaris. Triethyl citrate is hydrolyzed by C. acnes (which triggers acne under certain circumstances) into the diethyl ester and monoethyl ester of citric acid, as well as citric acid itself. As a result, the microenvironment of the pores becomes acidic, leading to reduced growth of C. acnes, inhibition of bacterial lipases, and modulation of the keratolytic effect.(2)

Sodium metabisulfite is a preservative. It is used in both cosmetics and food products.(1)

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an antioxidant enzyme used in skincare to combat oxidative stress, reduce premature skin aging, and protect against environmental damage (including UV radiation). It plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative stress by catalyzing the dismutation of superoxide radicals (O2-) into oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. SOD acts as a cellular defense mechanism, protecting cells from damage to DNA, proteins, and lipids.(1-2)

In an in vivo study, superoxide dismutase, combined with glycine soja protein and hydrolyzed rice protein, was shown to improve skin texture; in an in vitro study, it was shown to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(3)

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharides are a prebiotic. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial bacteria that occur naturally on the skin and play an important role in maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.(1–3) When combined with inulin, alpha-glucan oligosaccharides can help relieve skin symptoms such as dryness and itching.(4)

Behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid found in natural sources such as vegetable oils derived from the seeds of Moringa oleifera, and in small amounts in canola and peanut oils.(1) Cosmetic products that contain behenic acid as an emulsifier are characterized by high storage stability, even at high temperatures.(2)

Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is a mild, nonionic sugar-based surfactant. It is produced by the condensation of a mixture of caprylic and decyl alcohols with glucose. Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is recognized as safe under current practices of use and concentrations.(1)

Coco Glucoside, also known as cocoglycoside, is a mild, nonionic sugar surfactant. Cocoglycoside is the product obtained through the condensation of coconut fatty alcohols with glucose. Cocoglycoside is recognized as safe under current usage practices and concentrations.(1)

Lauryl glucoside is a mild, nonionic sugar-based surfactant. Lauryl glucoside is the product obtained by the condensation of lauryl alcohol with glucose. Lauryl glucoside is recognized as safe under current usage practices and concentrations.(1)

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and belongs to the group of essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a skin-lightening effect, which is attributed to the suppression of melanin production and increased exfoliation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan is a water-soluble derivative of beta-glucan—a natural polysaccharide derived from microorganisms such as yeasts or fungi. In cosmetic formulations, beta-glucan has a moisturizing effect and forms a smooth film on the skin that supports its barrier function and protects the skin from moisture loss. At the same time, it can activate immune cells such as macrophages, thereby promoting skin regeneration—for example, after stress or irritation. Clinical data show that beta-glucan can soothe the skin, reduce redness, and accelerate regeneration. (1–4)

Sodium cetearyl sulfate is a mixture of stearyl and cetyl sulfate that acts as an emulsifier.(1)

Sodium linoleate is the sodium salt of linoleic acid. It acts as an emulsifier and viscosity regulator.(1)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleanser. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage to the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) As a result, it is a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting primarily of kaolinite. It is a common clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. This fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency.(1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is frequently used in face masks, cleansers, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect while also soothing the skin. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations.(4-5)

Other applications include its use as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and base material for powders. Kaolin can also be used as a white pigment (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.(1)

Mica is a mixture of minerals with a layered structure that can be easily split into thin platelets. In cosmetics, mica is used as a so-called effect pigment (glimmer)—for example, to create shine, shimmer, or a light-reflecting finish. Due to its optical and functional properties, mica is a popular ingredient in powders, foundations, eyeshadows, and other decorative products.(1-2)

Silicon dioxide is used in cosmetics as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, filler, binder, skin-conditioning agent, lubricant, suspending agent, and viscosity-increasing agent. Skin care products containing silica may be well-suited for oily skin, as they help absorb excess sebum and leave the skin feeling matte, refreshed, and powdery.(1)

Squalane is the stable, saturated form of squalene, a natural component of human sebum that is also found in plants such as olives. The raw material is a clear, colorless, and odorless oil. It is characterized by its high stability. Squalane has a moisturizing effect by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Thanks to its skin-like structure, it is easily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It also supports skin regeneration.(1-3)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleanser. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage to the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) As a result, it is a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is a mild, nonionic sugar-based surfactant. It is produced by the condensation of a mixture of caprylic and decyl alcohols with glucose. Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is recognized as safe under current practices of use and concentrations.(1)

Coco Glucoside, also known as cocoglycoside, is a mild, nonionic sugar surfactant. Cocoglycoside is the product obtained through the condensation of coconut fatty alcohols with glucose. Cocoglycoside is recognized as safe under current usage practices and concentrations.(1)

Sodium cetearyl sulfate is a mixture of stearyl and cetyl sulfate that acts as an emulsifier.(1)

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, is typically used as a preservative in cosmetics. When applied topically (to the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. Ethanol is widely used for topical application, and there are very few reports of adverse effects.(1)

Dimethicone is a synthetically produced silicone oil that is frequently used in cosmetics as a skin-smoothing emollient and anti-foaming agent. (1) In our Daily Defense SPF 30 Powder, dimethicone is not used as a standalone oil base, but solely as a coating for the zinc oxide particles.

Behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid found in natural sources such as vegetable oils derived from the seeds of Moringa oleifera, and in small amounts in canola and peanut oils.(1) Cosmetic products that contain behenic acid as an emulsifier are characterized by high storage stability, even at high temperatures.(2)

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester is an ester of ethylene glycol and C18-36 acid and acts as an emulsifier.(1)

Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is a mild, nonionic sugar-based surfactant. It is produced by the condensation of a mixture of caprylic and decyl alcohols with glucose. Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is recognized as safe under current practices of use and concentrations.(1)

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is primarily used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin.(1)

Coco Glucoside, also known as cocoglycoside, is a mild, nonionic sugar surfactant. Cocoglycoside is the product obtained through the condensation of coconut fatty alcohols with glucose. Cocoglycoside is recognized as safe under current usage practices and concentrations.(1)

Lauryl glucoside is a mild, nonionic sugar-based surfactant. Lauryl glucoside is the product obtained by the condensation of lauryl alcohol with glucose. Lauryl glucoside is recognized as safe under current usage practices and concentrations.(1)

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and belongs to the group of essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a skin-lightening effect, which is attributed to the suppression of melanin production and increased exfoliation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride consists of a mixture of plant-derived polyglycerides containing linoleic, linolenic, and oleic acids. In clinical trials, the polyglyceride mixture was shown to hydrate the top three layers of the epidermis and slightly reduce fine lines.(1)

Sodium cetearyl sulfate is a mixture of stearyl and cetyl sulfate that acts as an emulsifier.(1)

Sodium linoleate is the sodium salt of linoleic acid. It acts as an emulsifier and viscosity regulator.(1)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleanser. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage to the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) As a result, it is a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Sucrose stearate (sucrose ester) is used as an emulsifier and skin care ingredient.(1) It consists of esters of sucrose and fatty acids with various hydrophilic and lipophilic properties. Due to their gel-forming properties, they are used in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries.(2-3)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.(1-2)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid found in natural sources such as vegetable oils derived from the seeds of Moringa oleifera, and in small amounts in canola and peanut oils.(1) Cosmetic products that contain behenic acid as an emulsifier are characterized by high storage stability, even at high temperatures.(2)

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is primarily used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin.(1)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting primarily of kaolinite. It is a common clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. This fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency.(1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is frequently used in face masks, cleansers, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect while also soothing the skin. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations.(4-5)

Other applications include its use as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and base material for powders. Kaolin can also be used as a white pigment (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.(1)

Magnesium oxide (MgO) is an inorganic compound that is widely used in cosmetic formulations as a fine, white powder. In creams, powders, or lotions, it serves as a white pigment (CI 77711), which provides the formulation with opacity or visual brightness. In addition, it helps absorb excess sebum, resulting in a matte complexion. At the same time, its buffering effect helps stabilize the product’s pH and contributes to the desired opacity and consistency. Due to its properties, magnesium oxide is a common excipient in decorative cosmetics and sunscreen products.(1)

Mica is a mixture of minerals with a layered structure that can be easily split into thin platelets. In cosmetics, mica is used as a so-called effect pigment (glimmer)—for example, to create shine, shimmer, or a light-reflecting finish. Due to its optical and functional properties, mica is a popular ingredient in powders, foundations, eyeshadows, and other decorative products.(1-2)

Myristyl Myristate is an emulsifier and a plant-based, waxy fatty acid ester. As a consistency-enhancing agent, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improves the formulation’s texture by creating a smooth and silky consistency. This makes the emulsion easier to apply, improves absorption into the skin, and leaves the skin feeling silky and powdery.

Silicon dioxide is used in cosmetics as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, filler, binder, skin-conditioning agent, lubricant, suspending agent, and viscosity-increasing agent. Skin care products containing silica may be well-suited for oily skin, as they help absorb excess sebum and leave the skin feeling matte, refreshed, and powdery.(1)

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-soluble polymer that acts as a film-former, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controller.(1) Polymers are small molecules consisting of repeating units of chemically bonded monomers. They are ubiquitous in nature; for example, the DNA of all living cells, as well as the proteins and starch in our food, are all composed of polymers. The polymers most commonly used in cosmetics have cationic charges, which give the skin a smooth and nourishing feel. Other polymers can, for example, form a film on the skin’s surface.(2)

Tin Oxide is a water-insoluble, inorganic metal compound that is used in cosmetic products primarily as an opacifier, viscosity regulator, and filler. Due to its opacifying properties, it gives formulations a more opaque appearance. It is used in low concentrations in both wash-off and leave-on products.(1-2)

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is a modern chemical UV filter with a particularly broad absorption spectrum ranging from 280 to 400 nm. It protects against both UVA and UVB radiation and is considered highly photostable. BEMT is oil-soluble and is ideal for broad-spectrum protective formulations with a high SPF.(1)

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is a sunscreen ingredient, also known as avobenzone, that provides UVA protection. This light brown, crystalline powder has a faint odor. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane also protects cosmetic products from photooxidation.(1)

Camellia sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is an extract derived from the plant’s leaves that is used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other phytochemicals.(2,6)

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a modern, chemical UVA filter with an absorption range of 320 to 400 nm. DHHB provides reliable protection against long-wave UVA radiation—a major cause of premature skin aging—and, when combined with effective UVB filters, further enhances SPF performance. DHHB is oil-soluble and is ideal for long-lasting sunscreen formulations.(1)

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, also known as Iscotrizinol, is an effective UVB filter that is highly soluble in oils. Due to its high specific extinction and excellent solubility, it is considered very efficient. Diethylhexyl butamido triazone can be used in any cosmetic formulation containing a suitable lipid phase, either alone or in combination with one or more UV filters. It can also be used in combination with inorganic UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) is a photostable chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. EHT is a UVB filter suitable for use in sunscreens.(1)

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA) is a water-soluble chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. As a UVB absorber, PBSA specifically protects the skin from sun-related damage such as sunburn. It can be ideally combined with other UV filters.(1)

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is a modern chemical UV filter with a particularly broad absorption spectrum ranging from 280 to 400 nm. It protects against both UVA and UVB radiation and is considered highly photostable. BEMT is oil-soluble and is ideal for broad-spectrum protective formulations with a high SPF.(1)

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is a sunscreen ingredient, also known as avobenzone, that provides UVA protection. This light brown, crystalline powder has a faint odor. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane also protects cosmetic products from photooxidation.(1)

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a modern, chemical UVA filter with an absorption range of 320 to 400 nm. DHHB provides reliable protection against long-wave UVA radiation—a major cause of premature skin aging—and, when combined with effective UVB filters, further enhances SPF performance. DHHB is oil-soluble and is ideal for long-lasting sunscreen formulations.(1)

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, also known as Iscotrizinol, is an effective UVB filter that is highly soluble in oils. Due to its high specific extinction and excellent solubility, it is considered very efficient. Diethylhexyl butamido triazone can be used in any cosmetic formulation containing a suitable lipid phase, either alone or in combination with one or more UV filters. It can also be used in combination with inorganic UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) is a photostable chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. EHT is a UVB filter suitable for use in sunscreens.(1)

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA) is a water-soluble chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. As a UVB absorber, PBSA specifically protects the skin from sun-related damage such as sunburn. It can be ideally combined with other UV filters.(1)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

Sodium hydroxide, also known as caustic soda, is an alkaline salt and is used in small amounts in cosmetics as a pH regulator. This ensures that the final product achieves the desired pH range, thereby ensuring skin compatibility and product stability.(1)

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetic products as a film-forming agent, emulsifier, or stabilizer. It ensures that the texture is stable, uniform, and pleasant to apply, particularly in emulsions containing UV filters. We deliberately include this ingredient in formulations where it is functionally necessary to improve texture, stability, and the sensory experience.(1-2)

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, is typically used as a preservative in cosmetics. When applied topically (to the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. Ethanol is widely used for topical application, and there are very few reports of adverse effects.(1)

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A “colloid” or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance containing dispersed, insoluble particles that are suspended in a liquid. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can help alleviate redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration thanks to the presence of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

May help reduce itching and irritation.

Provides smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations designed to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.(1)

Behenyl alcohol is a long-chain fatty alcohol and is primarily used in skin care as an emollient or fat-soluble co-emulsifier. It helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and leaves the skin feeling smooth.(1-2)

Butylene glycol is a dihydric alcohol that has moisturizing properties and serves as a solvent.(1)

Shea butter is a fat extracted from the kernels of the shea tree. The saponifiable fraction consists primarily of stearic and oleic acids, along with smaller amounts of palmitic, linoleic, and arachidic acids.(1–3) In addition, it contains a significant unsaponifiable fraction with bioactive substances, such as tocopherols (vitamin E), which have skin-improving properties.(1) At the molecular level, shea butter extracts have been shown to inhibit several cellular inflammatory pathways and can thus reduce skin irritation.(1–3) Shea butter can therefore soothe rough and chapped skin and has even been shown to be effective in the supportive treatment of eczema.(2)

Carbomer consists of a high-molecular-weight chain of acrylic acid units. It acts as a gelling and film-forming agent, thereby increasing the viscosity of formulations and stabilizing emulsions.(1)

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is primarily used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin.(1)

Cholesterol is a type of fat and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is a major component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes cholesterol on its own in the epidermis.

Following a disruption of the skin barrier, the early phase of repair is characterized by an increase in fatty acid and cholesterol biosynthesis, followed by epidermal sphingolipid synthesis. This highlights the importance of these epidermal lipids for the integrity and function of the skin barrier.(1)

Dimethylisosorbide is a solvent that, due to its high penetrating power, is used to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin. This can improve the effectiveness of the various ingredients.(1)

Gellan gum is a biotechnologically produced polysaccharide obtained through fermentation using bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas. The ingredient is considered to be of plant origin and is used in cosmetics as an excipient with a variety of functions. (1)

In cosmetic formulations, gellan gum primarily acts as a viscosity modifier by influencing the product’s texture and flow properties. In addition, it has film-forming properties: it forms a thin, even film, which not only improves the feel on the skin but can also help stabilize the formulation. (1-3)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: When the skin barrier function is impaired, changes may occur in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of skin elasticity. This can be corrected through the topical application of glycerin.(1)

A rapeseed oil derivative used as an emollient, skin care ingredient, and viscosity modifier.(1)

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that can act as a thickener, suspending agent, film-forming agent, and stabilizer.(1)

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch ester produced by the reaction of starch with hydroxypropyl and phosphate groups. This modification improves the physical and chemical properties of the starch. In skincare, this ingredient acts as a thickener, stabilizer, swelling agent, and viscosity modifier. It gives products a smooth, even consistency and improves their spreadability on the skin. In addition, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate reduces the sticky or greasy feel of formulations and helps retain moisture, keeping the skin hydrated. This ingredient is mild and well-tolerated, making it ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin.(1-2)

Lauroyl lysine is an ingredient used in cosmetics primarily as a sensory modifier and texture enhancer. This derivative of the amino acid lysine improves the skin feel and application properties of cosmetic products.(1)

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride consists of a mixture of plant-derived polyglycerides containing linoleic, linolenic, and oleic acids. In clinical trials, the polyglyceride mixture was shown to hydrate the top three layers of the epidermis and slightly reduce fine lines.(1)

Polyamide-8 is an oil-structuring polymer used in sunscreen and makeup products. It stabilizes pigment dispersions, improves shelf life, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin. Due to its film-forming properties, polyamide-8 contributes to wear resistance and thus improves the product’s abrasion resistance.(1)

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a natural humectant that is environmentally sustainable. It serves as a solvent and preservative while also providing moisture.

Sclerotium gum is a nonionic polysaccharide produced microbially by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is characterized by a linear chain of glucose units.(1-2) It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity modifier, and conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations.(2-3)

Silicon dioxide is used in cosmetics as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, filler, binder, skin-conditioning agent, lubricant, suspending agent, and viscosity-increasing agent. Skin care products containing silica may be well-suited for oily skin, as they help absorb excess sebum and leave the skin feeling matte, refreshed, and powdery.(1)

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-soluble polymer that acts as a film-former, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controller.(1) Polymers are small molecules consisting of repeating units of chemically bonded monomers. They are ubiquitous in nature; for example, the DNA of all living cells, as well as the proteins and starch in our food, are all composed of polymers. The polymers most commonly used in cosmetics have cationic charges, which give the skin a smooth and nourishing feel. Other polymers can, for example, form a film on the skin’s surface.(2)

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan is a water-soluble derivative of beta-glucan—a natural polysaccharide derived from microorganisms such as yeasts or fungi. In cosmetic formulations, beta-glucan has a moisturizing effect and forms a smooth film on the skin that supports its barrier function and protects the skin from moisture loss. At the same time, it can activate immune cells such as macrophages, thereby promoting skin regeneration—for example, after stress or irritation. Clinical data show that beta-glucan can soothe the skin, reduce redness, and accelerate regeneration. (1–4)

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modified form of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps improve the texture of skin care products.(1)

Sodium chloride, also known as table salt, is used in low concentrations and acts as a thickening agent in cleaning products.

Sodium dextran sulfate is used as a viscosity regulator in cosmetic formulations.(1) Its benefits for skin health include improved blood circulation and the potential to inhibit viral infections.(2, 3)

Sodium linoleate is the sodium salt of linoleic acid. It acts as an emulsifier and viscosity regulator.(1)

Tin Oxide is a water-insoluble, inorganic metal compound that is used in cosmetic products primarily as an opacifier, viscosity regulator, and filler. Due to its opacifying properties, it gives formulations a more opaque appearance. It is used in low concentrations in both wash-off and leave-on products.(1-2)

Triethyl citrate, also known as citric acid ester, is a solvent and diluent and is not considered to be a skin sensitizer. It is even approved for use in food products.(1)

A study also investigated the efficacy of a formulation containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate on acne vulgaris. Triethyl citrate is hydrolyzed by C. acnes (which triggers acne under certain circumstances) into the diethyl ester and monoethyl ester of citric acid, as well as citric acid itself. As a result, the microenvironment of the pores becomes acidic, leading to reduced growth of C. acnes, inhibition of bacterial lipases, and modulation of the keratolytic effect.(2)

Trihydroxystearin is the triester of glycerin and hydroxystearic acid. It is used as a skin conditioner, solvent, and viscosity regulator in cosmetic formulations at concentrations of up to 5%. (1-2)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.(1-2)

Triethyl citrate, also known as citric acid ester, is a solvent and diluent and is not considered to be a skin sensitizer. It is even approved for use in food products.(1)

A study also investigated the efficacy of a formulation containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate on acne vulgaris. Triethyl citrate is hydrolyzed by C. acnes (which triggers acne under certain circumstances) into the diethyl ester and monoethyl ester of citric acid, as well as citric acid itself. As a result, the microenvironment of the pores becomes acidic, leading to reduced growth of C. acnes, inhibition of bacterial lipases, and modulation of the keratolytic effect.(2)

Acetic acid, also known as vinegar acid, is produced through fermentation and has antimicrobial properties as well as a pH-regulating effect in cosmetic formulations.(1)

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with a wide range of benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is frequently used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) In cases of rosacea, azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation. (2, 4) Furthermore, azelaic acid has strong antioxidant properties by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

As an ideal buffering agent, citric acid regulates the pH of a formulation and acts as a chelating agent, thereby improving the stability and shelf life of products.(1)

Disodium phosphate (disodium hydrogen phosphate) is a synthetically produced buffer that regulates and stabilizes the pH of cosmetic formulations. It can also act as a corrosion inhibitor.(1-2)

Glycolic acid is one of the most effective alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and is frequently used in cosmetics due to its versatile properties. This acid can improve skin hydration, increase skin thickness, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. In addition, glycolic acid is very effective in treating hyperpigmentation and acne.(1-4)

Lactic acid acts, depending on the concentration used, as a natural moisturizing factor or as an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), which gently exfoliates the skin and provides moisture. Lactic acid also stimulates ceramide biosynthesis and improves the skin’s barrier function. By stimulating ceramide synthesis, the ceramide content in the skin is increased, which strengthens the skin barrier and improves the skin’s structural integrity.(1–4)

Magnesium hydroxide is an inorganic compound that is used in cosmetics primarily as an absorbent and as a buffering agent to stabilize the pH level.(1)

Magnesium oxide (MgO) is an inorganic compound that is widely used in cosmetic formulations as a fine, white powder. In creams, powders, or lotions, it serves as a white pigment (CI 77711), which provides the formulation with opacity or visual brightness. In addition, it helps absorb excess sebum, resulting in a matte complexion. At the same time, its buffering effect helps stabilize the product’s pH and contributes to the desired opacity and consistency. Due to its properties, magnesium oxide is a common excipient in decorative cosmetics and sunscreen products.(1)

Potassium Lactate is the potassium salt of lactic acid and is frequently used as an excipient in cosmetic formulations. In skin care, it also serves as a humectant, as it binds water and thus helps protect the skin from drying out. In addition, potassium lactate has skin-nourishing properties and helps the skin feel comfortable. Thanks to its buffering properties, it also helps regulate and stabilize the pH of cosmetic products, which is important for the formulation’s tolerability and effectiveness. (1)

Potassium phosphate (potassium dihydrogen phosphate) is a synthetically produced phosphate salt used in cosmetics as a buffering agent to regulate and stabilize the pH level.(1)

Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid and is primarily used in cosmetics as a pH regulator and buffering agent. It helps maintain a stable pH level in formulations, thereby supporting skin tolerance and product shelf life. In addition, sodium citrate is used as a chelating agent to bind metal ions, thereby improving the stability of cosmetic products.(1–3)

Sodium hydroxide, also known as caustic soda, is an alkaline salt and is used in small amounts in cosmetics as a pH regulator. This ensures that the final product achieves the desired pH range, thereby ensuring skin compatibility and product stability.(1)

Sodium lactate, a highly moisturizing active ingredient that increases the skin's water-binding capacity.(1)

Potassium Hydrolyzed Polygamma-Glutamate is the potassium salt of hydrolyzed polyglutamic acid, a biopolymer obtained through fermentation consisting of multiple linked glutamic acid units. Thanks to its low molecular weight, this active ingredient penetrates the skin easily and hydrates it. It does so through two complementary mechanisms: it supports the body’s own hyaluronic acid in the epidermis while simultaneously increasing the natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). In addition, it can strengthen the skin barrier and help improve skin elasticity. (1–3)