DR. EMI ARPA SKIN
DR. EMI ARPA SKIN

INCI Glossary

Our INCI glossary breaks down every formula—clearly, understandably, and with complete transparency.

A

ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is commonly used in skin care products because it is more stable than ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting properties due to its antioxidant activity, ascorbyl glucoside can also be used as a skin-brightening ingredient in cosmetics.(1-2)

An in vitro study investigated the photoprotective effect against ultraviolet (UV) light. The results suggest that the vitamin C derivative can prevent damage caused by UVB radiation by partially scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS).(3)

Thanks to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects, ascorbyl glucoside in our Serious C Serum helps improve the health and appearance of the skin.

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ASCORBYL PALMITATE

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C. While pure vitamin C is water-soluble and often unstable, this esterified form offers excellent stability in oil-containing phases. (1)
In our products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily used as a functional antioxidant. It serves to protect the sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation. In particular, it prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid, thereby ensuring the product’s shelf life and quality. (1)–(3)
Ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective when combined with vitamin E. This creates a synergistic effect in which ascorbyl palmitate regenerates depleted vitamin E. This “recycling process” provides a longer-lasting protective shield against free radicals within the formulation. (4)

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ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its antioxidant properties.(1) It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human skin and is also capable of promoting collagen synthesis in deeper cells.(2-3) In a 2021 study, when combined with other substances such as rice peptides, it was shown to increase skin hydration, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote cell renewal in the epidermis.(4)

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ASTAXANTHIN

Astaxanthin isextractedfrom thegreen alga Haematococcus pluvialis. This alga is a source of valuable bioactive compounds, including astaxanthin and other carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A). It is found in a wide variety of organisms, ranging from tiny microorganisms to higher plants and animals. It is particularly well known for its pronounced antioxidant effect. Its antioxidant properties are based on its chemical structure. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals—unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage. Thanks to astaxanthin’s protective mechanism, premature skin aging is prevented.(1–3)

Its antioxidant effect in protecting cell membranes is stronger than that of vitamin C and vitamin E. Therefore, astaxanthin is considered the natural carotenoid with the strongest antioxidant effect.(4)

Research findings suggest that astaxanthin may be beneficial in treating inflammatory diseases. Due to its diverse functions in skin biology, astaxanthin is already being used in dermatology.(5)

A particular advantage of astaxanthin is that it contains both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (fat-loving) components. This allows astaxanthin to penetrate the skin’s bilayer more effectively and exert a more multifaceted effect there than other antioxidants.(6)

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AVENA SATIVA KERNEL FLOUR

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A “colloid” or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance containing dispersed, insoluble particles that are suspended in a liquid. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can help alleviate redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration thanks to the presence of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

May help reduce itching and irritation.

Provides smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations designed to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.(1)

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AVENA SATIVA KERNEL OIL

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil extracted from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.(1-8)

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially in the case of sensitive skin.

It soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Helps the skin retain moisture without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin.(1)

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AZELAIC ACID

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with a wide range of benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is frequently used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) In cases of rosacea, azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation. (2, 4) Furthermore, azelaic acid has strong antioxidant properties by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

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B

BACILLUS FERMENT

Bacillus Ferment is derived from acidophilic bacteria. In one study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis demonstrated particularly effective wound-healing properties.(1) According to the manufacturer, Bacillus Ferment increases the skin’s moisture levels by reducing transepidermal water loss. It strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating lipids and genes associated with the stratum corneum. It also protects keratinocytes from dehydration and promotes skin regeneration and repair by alleviating redness and increasing the skin’s firmness and elasticity.(2) Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we have also become aware of several active ingredients for which there is not yet a broad body of research, but which have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with the EU Cosmetics Regulation, and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Bacillus Ferment, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continually being discovered. Our mission is to consistently develop the most innovative formulations; therefore, in addition to the evidence-based foundation of active ingredients, we have also incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Bacillus Ferment into some of our products. Our active ingredient glossary is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new research findings and updated accordingly.

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