DR. EMI ARPA SKIN
DR. EMI ARPA SKIN

INCI Glossary

Our INCI glossary breaks down every formula—clearly, understandably, and with complete transparency.

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P-ANISIC ACID

p-Anisic acid is an aromatic carboxylic acid with multifunctional properties. It is known for its masking effect. (1-2)

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PALMITOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-4

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a peptide derived from the reaction between palmitic acid and pentapeptide-4. It is also known as Matrixyl and consists of a short peptide chain containing five amino acids (lysine, threonine, threonine, lysine, serine) bound to palmitic acid.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a biologically active peptide that has been reported to stimulate the production of elastin, fibronectin, glucosaminoglycans, and collagens (particularly types I, III, and IV), as well as to support wound healing.1 In studies, it has been shown to be effective in reducing periorbital wrinkles by decreasing wrinkle depth and improving skin barrier function and skin elasticity.(1-3)

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PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a component of certain antibodies with the sequence Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Together with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, it is also known as Matrixyl™3000. In studies, Matrixyl™3000 has been shown to result in a statistically significant reduction in wrinkle length and depth, as well as in skin roughness, and an increase in skin thickness.(1)

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide decreases the release of a proinflammatory signaling protein and thus reduces inflammation following UVB exposure. (2-3)

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PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a peptide obtained as the reaction product of palmitic acid and tripeptide-1. Together with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, it is also known as Matrixyl™3000 and consists of a short peptide chain containing three amino acids (glycine, histidine, and lysine = GHK peptide) bound to the fatty acid palmitic acid.

In ex vivo studies, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 has been shown to have the ability, on its own, to stimulate the synthesis of type 1 collagen in the body and to prevent collagen breakdown following UVA exposure.(1) In studies, Matrixyl™3000 has been shown to result in a statistically significant reduction in wrinkle length and depth, as well as skin roughness, and an increase in skin thickness.(2)

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PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a synthetic peptide consisting of the amino acids lysine, methionine, and lysyl, bound to palmitic acid. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a component of the complex known as Volulip™. In the manufacturer’s in vivo studies, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface texture, and volume), as well as in hydration and youthfulness (more defined contours and a plumping effect), in at least 69% of the female participants.(2) It belongs to the class of “matrikin-mimetic compounds,” which play a key role in the synthesis of elastin and collagen. In addition, it can stimulate cell proliferation. Palmitic acid, as an ingredient, also has antioxidant properties. It is considered suitable for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.(1)

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PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a synthetic tripeptide used in cosmetics as a skin-care active ingredient for “well-aging.” As a matrikin-like peptide, it can target signaling pathways in the extracellular matrix and thereby smooth the skin’s texture: Manufacturer data report a visible reduction in fine lines (e.g., forehead, crow’s feet) with regular use. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a so-called matrix peptide that stimulates the production of key components of the skin matrix—including collagen I, III, and IV, as well as hyaluronic acid.(1) These structures provide the skin with elasticity and firmness. In clinical studies, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 was shown to visibly reduce wrinkle depth. In formulations, it thus helps maintain healthy skin and a more even skin texture.(1-3)

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