INCI Glossary
Our INCI glossary breaks down every formula—clearly, understandably, and with complete transparency.
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Our INCI glossary breaks down every formula—clearly, understandably, and with complete transparency.
CAPSICUM FRUTESCENS FRUIT EXTRACT
Capsicum Frutenscens Fruit Extract is a chili extract. The capsaicin it contains stimulates blood circulation, thereby increasing lip volume and enhancing the natural lip color.(1)
CARBOMER
Carbomer consists of a high-molecular-weight chain of acrylic acid units. It acts as a gelling and film-forming agent, thereby increasing the viscosity of formulations and stabilizing emulsions.(1)
CARNOSINE
Carnosine is a dipeptide consisting of the amino acids alanine and histidine. It occurs naturally in high concentrations in muscle and brain tissue. Carnosine is a powerful antioxidant that promotes wound healing and can minimize redness.(1) In an ex vivo study, a cream containing 0.2% carnosine also demonstrated remarkable anti-glycation properties. Glycation is a reaction between proteins and sugars that leads to the formation and accumulation of certain advanced glycation end products (AGEs). These end products have also been found to be associated with extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. The glycation of collagen I, an essential structural protein in the dermis, impairs its function in a variety of ways. Studies have shown that glycated collagen and elastin exhibit altered biomechanical properties that lead to a loss of elasticity and increased stiffness, which in turn promotes the formation of wrinkles.(2)
CERAMIDES
Ceramides are among the most important dermal sphingolipids, which are part of the skin’s own lipids. They account for about half of the lipids in the stratum corneum. Ceramides have numerous structural and biological functions in the human epidermis; for example, they play a role in preventing transepidermal water loss. In addition, ceramides regulate processes such as cell division and differentiation of keratinocytes. (1) Ceramides are classified according to the length of their bound fatty acid or the sphingoid backbone, for example, as AP, NP, or EOP ceramides.(1) A study found that the facial skin of patients with mild to moderate acne vulgaris contained a significantly lower percentage of ceramides and sphingosines, while transepidermal water loss was significantly higher compared to healthy control subjects.(2) In vitro studies also showed that phytosphingosine inhibits the growth of bacteria, including Cutibacterium acnes, and subsequent in vivo studies confirmed its antimicrobial properties through a significant reduction in the total bacterial count on unwashed hands.(1)
CETEARYL ALCOHOL
Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is primarily used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation, and ensures a pleasant feel on the skin.(1)
CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate is the ester of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is used as a skin care ingredient (emollient) as well as a hair care ingredient.(1)
CHOLESTEROL
Cholesterol is a type of fat and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is a major component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes cholesterol on its own in the epidermis.
Following a disruption of the skin barrier, the early phase of repair is characterized by an increase in fatty acid and cholesterol biosynthesis, followed by epidermal sphingolipid synthesis. This highlights the importance of these epidermal lipids for the integrity and function of the skin barrier.(1)
CHONDRUS CRISPUS
Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae rich in carrageenan that acts as a thickener and stabilizer. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysaccharides with promising properties, such as antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic activities. Its antioxidant effect is attributed to polyphenols.(1-2)
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