Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch ester produced by the reaction of starch with hydroxypropyl and phosphate groups. This modification improves the physical and chemical properties of the starch. In skincare, this ingredient acts as a thickener, stabilizer, swelling agent, and viscosity modifier. It gives products a smooth, even consistency and improves their spreadability on the skin. In addition, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate reduces the sticky or greasy feel of formulations and helps retain moisture, keeping the skin hydrated. This ingredient is mild and well-tolerated, making it ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin.(1-2)

Inulin is a polysaccharide and is classified as a prebiotic. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial bacteria that occur naturally on the skin and play an important role in maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.(1–3) As a prebiotic, inulin thus has the potential to contribute to a healthy skin barrier.(4–5) When combined with alpha-glucan oligosaccharides, inulin can alleviate skin symptoms such as dryness and itching.(6)

Isomalt is a plant-based sugar substitute consisting of two sugar alcohols. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a humectant (technical additive) because it helps retain moisture in the product. (1)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting primarily of kaolinite. It is a common clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. This fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency.(1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is frequently used in face masks, cleansers, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect while also soothing the skin. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations.(4-5)

Other applications include its use as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and base material for powders. Kaolin can also be used as a white pigment (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.(1)

Kefiran is a vegan, skin-nourishing active ingredient obtained through the fermentation of the bacterial strain Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens in a plant-based culture medium; it is present as a component of a ferment lysate. (1)

In skincare, kefiran is considered a versatile active ingredient: It helps the skin defend against free radicals, counteracts oxidative stress, and can reduce redness. It also helps strengthen the skin barrier and promotes skin elasticity and firmness. This makes kefiran particularly suitable for skincare products designed to protect, regenerate, and soothe the skin. (1,2)

Lactic acid acts, depending on the concentration used, as a natural moisturizing factor or as an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), which gently exfoliates the skin and provides moisture. Lactic acid also stimulates ceramide biosynthesis and improves the skin’s barrier function. By stimulating ceramide synthesis, the ceramide content in the skin is increased, which strengthens the skin barrier and improves the skin’s structural integrity.(1–4)

Lactobacillus Ferment is a biotechnologically derived active ingredient (postbiotic) produced through the fermentation of Lactobacillus crispatus. It helps improve skin elasticity, reduces the appearance of crow’s feet (lateral eye wrinkles), and promotes an even complexion.(1) Studies report a reduction in fine lines and an improvement in skin elasticity.(2)

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is obtained through optimized fermentation of Lactobacillus pentosus. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate improves skin barrier function by increasing the production of tight junction proteins, which help stabilize the cellular networks in the skin.(1) Manufacturer studies have shown that Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate inhibits the secretion of inflammatory cytokines. Overall, these results indicate that Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate possesses anti-inflammatory properties that can strengthen the skin’s barrier function, limit transepidermal water loss, increase skin hydration, and support the skin’s recovery from external aggressors.(2)