DR. EMI ARPA SKIN
DR. EMI ARPA SKIN

INCI Glossary

Our INCI glossary breaks down every formula—clearly, understandably, and with complete transparency.

H

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL

Helianthus annuus seed oil is the botanical name for sunflower oil. It is extracted from the seeds of the sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and contains a high proportion of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.(1)

Linoleic acid is important for maintaining the skin barrier, helps prevent water loss, and plays a role in regulating cell division, epidermal differentiation, and, consequently, in controlling skin desquamation.(2)

Sunflower oil has skin-protecting properties. It is particularly well-suited for mature, sensitive, dry, damaged, or inflamed skin. This versatile oil is recommended for all skin types and is used in numerous skincare products. It moisturizes, regenerates, protects, and nourishes the skin without clogging the pores.(3)

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HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED WAX

Helianthus annuus seed wax is derived from sunflower seeds and is used in cosmetics as an emollient and viscosity modifier.(1)

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HEXANoyl DIPEPTIDE-3 NORLEUCINE ACETATE

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, also known as Perfection Peptide P3, is a biologically active tripeptide that reactivates the skin’s natural exfoliation process. By regulating the exfoliation process, the peptide improves skin quality and can thus help reduce the appearance of skin imperfections. It can accelerate skin cell renewal and provide the skin with intense hydration.(1)

Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we have also identified several active ingredients for which there is not yet a broad body of research, but which have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with the EU Cosmetics Regulation, and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continually being discovered. Our mission is to consistently develop the most innovative formulations; therefore, in addition to the evidence-based active ingredient foundation, we have also incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate into some of our products. Our active ingredient glossary is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new research findings and is updated accordingly.

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HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES EXTRACT

Hippophae rhamnoides extract is a plant extract derived from sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides, family Elaeagnaceae).(1) In our formulation, we use an extract derived from upcycled leaves, which, due to its composition (including phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins, and organic acids), is used as an antioxidant and skin-nourishing ingredient. According to the manufacturer, it improves the appearance of dark circles and puffiness and leaves the eye area looking fresher.(2)

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HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES FRUIT OIL

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil, also known as sea buckthorn pulp oil, is obtained by cold-pressing or centrifuging the pulp of the sea buckthorn berry. The reddish-orange oil is characterized by its high content of bioactive compounds such as unsaturated fatty acids (e.g., palmitoleic acid), carotenoids, tocopherols, and flavonoids.(1-2)

In skincare, it is primarily used for its regenerative, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. It can strengthen the skin barrier, retain moisture, and alleviate signs of dryness or irritation. Due to its antioxidant effects, it is also considered helpful in combating premature skin aging caused by environmental factors.(3-4)

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HYALURONIC ACID

Hyaluronic acid is one of the primary factors in skin hydration, along with lipids, natural moisturizing factors, sebum, and aquaporin. As the predominant component of the extracellular matrix, hyaluronic acid plays an essential role in maintaining skin hydration. Hyaluronic acid is produced as early as the embryonic development stage, making it one of the first components of the extracellular matrix. In addition to its ability to bind water, the molecule acts as a lubricant during skin movements between the collagen and elastic fiber networks in the dermis. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid can influence cellular metabolism.(1)

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HYDROGENATED COCONUT GLYCERIDES

Hydrogenated coco-glycerides are hydrogenated mono-, di-, and triglycerides derived from coconut fatty acids.(1) In cosmetic formulations, they are used as emollients/skin care agents.(2)

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HYDROGENATED LECITHIN

Hydrogenated lecithin is the end product of the controlled hydrogenation of lecithin and has the same functions as lecithin. It also acts as a suspending agent.(1)

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