The causes of skin purging lie in the skin’s biochemical processes. When active ingredients such as retinoids (retinal), acids (AHA, BHA), or other exfoliating products are used, skin cell renewal is accelerated. This accelerated cell renewal causes dead skin cells to shed more quickly and brings deeper impurities to the skin’s surface. The result is a temporary worsening of the skin’s appearance in the form of pimples, blackheads, and other blemishes. Unlike ordinary skin blemishes, skin purging usually occurs within a few days or weeks after introducing a new product and subsides after a few weeks.
Skincare products containing vitamin C can trigger a “vitamin C initial flare-up.” The Serious C Complex Antioxidant Serum contains effective vitamin C derivatives that are less likely than pure ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to cause an initial flare-up of the skin. Nevertheless, it’s recommended to introduce active-ingredient skincare products gradually—a process known as “phasing them into” your skincare routine. This means using the new product less frequently at first—about every other day or every third day—to allow the skin to slowly adjust to the ingredients. This method minimizes the risk of skin irritation that could result from introducing the product too quickly. Once the skin tolerates the product well, the frequency of use can be gradually increased, and the product can be integrated into the daily routine. Exfoliating toners or serums containing hydroxy acids such as BHA (salicylic acid) can cause a short-term “salicylic acid initial flare-up” in some users. Similarly, the skin may initially appear worse after a professional cosmetic cleansing, but this is often a temporary effect. The Active Acids Exfoliating Solution contains, among other ingredients, hydroxy acids from the AHA and BHA classes. These promote skin renewal and, in rare cases, can trigger “AHA purging.” The Absolute A and Absolute A+ retinal serums contain effective ingredients such as encapsulated retinal. This retinoid supports natural skin renewal and can cause an initial skin reaction in some users in the form of what is known as a “retinoid purge.” This initial flare-up often occurs during the first few weeks of use. Niacinamide—known for its skin-regulating and anti-inflammatory properties—can also lead to skin breakouts at first. “Niacinamide newbies” occasionally report so-called “niacinamide breakouts,” which is a typical reaction to the introduction of a new active ingredient. Similarly, azelaic acid can trigger a temporary purging phase. Other clarifying ingredients can also cause temporary breakouts before the skin’s appearance visibly improves. One example is benzoyl peroxide (BPO), an active ingredient commonly used in medical products for acne treatment.
TIPS FOR MINIMIZING SKIN PURGING
To avoid an initial worsening of skin condition, it’s advisable to introduce new products into your skincare routine gradually. Start with lower concentrations of active ingredients and increase them gradually only if your skin tolerates them well. A mild cleanser and a barrier-strengthening cream form the basis of your routine to optimally prepare your skin for the change. During this phase, you should avoid other potentially irritating active ingredients as well as exfoliating toners for the time being so as not to put additional strain on your skin.
