INCI Glossary
Our INCI glossary breaks down every formula—clearly, understandably, and with complete transparency.
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POTASSIUM SORBATE
Potassium sorbate is a preservative used in cosmetics that has antimicrobial properties. It helps extend the shelf life of cosmetic products. The substance occurs naturally in berries, for example, but is usually produced synthetically for use in cosmetics. In rare cases, potassium sorbate can cause mild skin irritation.(1)
PROPANEDIOL
Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a natural humectant that is environmentally sustainable. It serves as a solvent and preservative while also providing moisture.
PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, also known as sweet almond oil, is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the almond tree (Prunus amygdalus). It is rich in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and oleic acids, which are also naturally found in the skin barrier. This plant-based oil is well-tolerated and leaves even dry skin feeling supple.(1) In addition, sweet almond oil contains large amounts of vitamins E and K, which promote skin regeneration and maintain its elasticity.(2)
PRUNUS DOMESTICA SEED EXTRACT
Plum seed oil has antioxidant properties and is rich in valuable fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic acids. It has skin-repairing properties, spreads easily, and is non-greasy.(1)
PSEUDOZYMA EPICOLA/CAMELLIA JAPONICA SEED OIL FERMENT EXTRACT FILTRATE
Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is produced using yeasts of the genus Pseudozyma. The fermentation process creates bioactive compounds that can enhance the oil’s skin-nourishing properties.(1–3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties.(1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care.(4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the skin’s microbial diversity (alpha diversity) and positively influence the skin microbiome.(1)
R
RESVERATROL
Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted significant interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effects includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin-lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.(1-4)
In addition to its antimicrobial effects against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and helps increase the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)
In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external factors.(1, 4, 5)
The body of research supports the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.
RETINAL
Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, is a vitamin A derivative (retinoid). Retinoids increase collagen levels in the upper dermis by inhibiting collagen breakdown and stimulating collagen synthesis. Retinal is a natural precursor to retinoic acid, meaning it requires only a single conversion step to be oxidized into its active form. According to recent studies, retinal is considered the most effective over-the-counter retinoid, offering a favorable balance of efficacy and tolerability.(1)
Retinal is a popular active ingredient for treating skin with signs of photoaging and is generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. A randomized, double-blind study investigated the effects of 0.05% and 0.1% retinal on photoaged skin. Both concentrations resulted in an improvement in general signs of photoaging as well as a significant improvement in fine wrinkles and skin roughness. In addition, both concentrations reduced transepidermal water loss and increased the skin’s moisture content. 0.1% retinal also resulted in a significant improvement in skin pigmentation. Both concentrations were well tolerated.(2)
The conversion of retinal to retinoic acid occurs only in keratinocytes at a specific stage of differentiation, which results in a more controlled uptake of retinoic acid. This leads to milder retinoid-related side effects, such as skin irritation or redness, compared to tretinoin and other retinoids, which is why retinal is generally better tolerated.(3)
In another study, a 0.05% retinal solution was shown to significantly increase epidermal thickness and skin elasticity. The retinal treatment also led to an increase in dermal thickness and a reduction in skin stiffness, and was very well tolerated by the patients.(4)
In an ex vivo study, significant repair of elastic fibers and collagen changes caused by UV radiation, as well as increased collagen synthesis, were observed.(5)
Overall, it can be concluded that 0.05–0.1% retinal is effective in reducing signs of skin aging.
Retinal has mild comedolytic properties.(6) In a study examining the antibacterial activity of retinal against C. acnes, daily topical application of 0.05% retinal was also associated with a significant reduction in C. acnes density. This finding suggests direct antibacterial activity.(7)
In another study, 0.05% retinal, when applied topically, exhibited the same activity profile as 0.025% retinoic acid, namely a comedolytic and epidermal-thickening effect. The study’s results support the topical use of retinal in the treatment of acne.(8)
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